NARRATIVE

TOUR THROUGH HAWAII,

OWHYHEE;

WITH OBSERVATIONS ON THE NATURAL HISTORY OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS, AND REMARKS ON THE MANNERS, CUSTOMS, TRADITIONS, HISTORY, AND LANGUAGE OF THEIR INHABITANTS.

BY WILLIAM ELLIS,

MISSIONARY FROM THE SOCIETY AND SANDWICH ISLANDS.

THIRD EDITION.

LONDON :

H. FISHER, SON, AND P. JACKSON.

HATCHARD AND SON; SEELEY AND SON; HAMILTON, ADAMS, AND CO.; SHERWOOD AND CO.; J. NISBET ; SIMPKIN AND MARSHALL; AND J. DUNCAN, LONDON: WAUGH AND INNES, EDINBURGH; COLLINS, GLASGOW; & KEENE, DUBLIN.

1827.

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H. Fisher, Caxton, London-} Printer to His Ma.iesty.

PREFACE.

The greater part of the following Narrative was written in the Sandwich Islands, from notes taken by my fellow-travellers and myself, while engaged in the Tour it describes. At my request, a member of the American Mission was associated in preparing it; but circumstances requiring his presence in another island, the task devolved on myself alone.

The journal, when prepared, was submitted to most of the - missionaries, and approved. As the chief object of the Tour, — a survey of the religious state of the inhabitants of the island, — was one in which the American Society had an equal interest with the London Missionary Society , with which I am connected, a copy of the journal approved in the islands, was, according to previous agreement between the American missionaries and my¬ self, left by me in America, and I believe will be published there.

The continued narrative form, as more agreeable than that of a daily journal, has been adopted in the present publication; and the writer appears in the first person, instead of the third. I have not felt it incumbent on me to confine myself to the mere contents of the document left in America ; but have, in various parts, made large additions from my own private observations.

The biographical accounts of various important persons, many descriptions of the superstitions, manners, customs, and tradi¬ tions of the people, the nature of their government, and the remarks on their language, are taken from my own memoranda, which a knowledge of their language enabled me to make, during my daily intercourse with the natives for the space of two years.

I have occasionally illustrated my remarks by allusions to the Society Islands, where I spent six years in missionary occupa¬ tions. I have invariably represented the natives as we found them, exhibiting freely the lights and shades of their character, without exaggeration ; and can assure my readers, that it has been my constant aim to offer nothing, the accuracy of which may not be relied upon ; and, in many descriptions, have rather diminished than enlarged the objects described.

The drawings were sketched on the spot. The outline of the map is from Vancouver’s survey, unaltered, except slightly in two places, viz. Kairua and Waiakea. The geographical divisions, &c. were inserted during the Tour ; and specimens brought to this country, of the lava, &c. described in the narrative, have been inspected by individuals of eminence in the study of mineralogy.

PREFACE,

It is hoped, that in various points of view, the following narra¬ tive will be found interesting. It will introduce to the more accurate knowledge of our country a portion of the human race, with which they have been hitherto very imperfectly acquainted ; and tend to remove some prejudices which may have existed respecting the supposed invincible ferocity of the Sandwich Islanders. It will prove that they are rapidly emerging from their former condition, and preparing to maintain a higher rank in the scale of nations. Above all, it will furnish a decisive and triumphant illustration of the direct tendency of Christian prin¬ ciples, and Christian institutions, to promote the true ameliora¬ tion of mankind in all the relations of social life. Without depreciating the value of those efforts, which mere political phi¬ lanthropists may employ for the interests of humanity; such facts as those presented to the world, in the recent history of the Society and Sandwich Islands, prove, that Christianity alone supplies the most powerful motives, and the most effective ma¬ chinery, for originating and accomplishing the processes of civi¬ lization. While the spiritual welfare and the eternal destinies of men are the primary objects of its solicitude, it provides for all their subordinate interests on true and permanent principles; and thus lays a solid foundation for personal happiness, domestic comfort, and national prosperity. These are the legitimate triumphs of the gospel ; these are moral demonstrations of its efficiency and its origin ; these are proofs, in perfect harmony with other illustrations of the fact, that “ the foolishness of God is wiser than men, and the weakness of God is stronger than men ;” and that “ godliness hath the promise of the life that now is, and of the life which is to come.”

The candid reader will pass over all the defects in the execution of the work, when assured, that every pretension, except to a simple narrative of facts, is disclaimed ; that it was prepared amidst a variety of engagements, and under the pressure of severe domestic affliction ; and that the last ten years of my life have been so much devoted to the study of the uncultivated languages of the Pacific, that when most of it was written, they were more familiar than my native tongue.

London, February % 3, 1826.

ADVERTISEMENT TO THE SECOND EDITION.

In presenting to the public a Second Edition of the following Narrative, the Author is happy in having an opportunity gratefully to acknowledge the kindness of those numerous friends who honoured him with their sub¬ scriptions for the first Edition, — the favourable notice taken of the volume in a number of highly respectable literary, scientific, and religious periodical publications, — and the encouraging approbation it has received from the public at large. In preparing the present Edition, he has availed himself of the friendly suggestions of the Editors of the Literary Gazette and the Eclectic Review; has altered in many parts the phraseology of the narrative, and has introduced in the first Chapter a brief account of the other Islands of the group. Tire present Volume, containing forty additional pages of Letterpress, and three extra Plates, together with a Map of the Sandwich Islands, induces him to hope it will be found to merit a degree of patronage equal to that which the first Edition has received.

London, December 2 1st, 1826.

THIRD EDITION— MARCH 19th, 182T.

CONTENTS.

CHAP. I.

Correctness of Captain Cook’s Narrative — Remarks on the impressions pro¬ duced by its perusal — Actual state of the People — General account of Hawaii , Maui , Tahaurawe, Morokini , Ranai, Morokai, Oahu, Tauai , Niihau, and Taura — Climate, Population, and Natural History, of the Sandwich Islands — Importance of their local Situation — Establishment of a Christian Mission among them — Present from the British Govern¬ ment — Visit of the Deputation — Motives for removing thither — Arrival of Missionaries — Objects of the projected Tour of Hawaii — Remarks on the Orthography of native Words. - Page 1

CHAP. II.

Voyage of part of the Missionaries to Kairua — Welcome from the Governor of Hawaii — A Breakfast Scene — Description of an extensive Cavern — Curious natural Phenomenon, occasioned by the Sea — Situation and Ap¬ pearance of Kairua — Excursion to the Plantations — Christian Zeal of a Chief — Ruins of a Heiau — Notice of Captain Cook — Account of Mouna Huararai — Volcanic Phenomena. - 40

CHAP. III.

Departure from Oahu — Occurrence off Ranai — Appearance of Lahaina — Keopuolani, Queen of the Islands — Native Dance— Missionary Labours — Buhenehene, a popular native game — Traditions respecting some of the principal Idols of Maui and the adjacent Islands — Voyage to Hawaii — Visit to an aged English resident — Description of a Heiau — Native Dance at Kairua. - 59

CHAP. IV.

Proposed Route — An ancient Fortress — Aid from the Governor of Hawaii — Another Native Dance — Height of Mouna Huararai — Manner of pre¬ paring Bark for Native Cloth — Cultivation of the Cloth Plant — Method of manufacturing and painting various kinds of Cloth — Conversation with the Governor — Departure from Kairua — Description of our Guide — Several Heiaus — Population of the Western Coast — Tracts of rugged Lava — Scene of the Battle which took place in consequence of the Abolition of Idolatry, in 1819 — Description of the Battle — Tomb of a celebrated Priest — Account of Captain Cook’s Death, and the Honours rendered to his Remains — Encouraging Missionary Labours. - 87

CHAP. V.

Visit to the Spot where Captain Cook was killed — Hawaiian Notions of a Future State — Account of the Battle at Mokuohai — Death of Kauikeouli — Former Prevalence of War in the Sandwich Islands — Warriors — War¬ like Games — Methods of consulting the Gods before determining on

CONTENTS.

War — Human Sacrifices — Councils of War — Levying Armies — Encamp¬ ments — Fortifications — Naval Fights — Disposition of Forces — Weapons — War Dresses — Methods of Attack — War-gods carried to the Battle — Single Combats — Sacrificing the Slain — -Treatment of the Vanquished— Manner of concluding Peace. - - - Page 127

CHAP. VI.

Burying-place of the ancient Hawaiian Kings — Account of the Puhonua, or City of Refuge, at Honaunau — Population of this Part of the Coast — • Advantages of Honaunau for a Missionary Station — Lodging at Keokea — Ancient Cataract of Lava, and irregular vaulted Avenue — Journey along the Shore — Mourning Ceremonies and Customs at the Death of the Chiefs. - - - - - - - 151

CHAP. VIL

Singular Pillars of Lava — Scarcity of Fresh Water — Division of Kona — Appearance of the south-west Part of the Island — Keavaiti — Missionary Labours at Patini — Beautiful Spouting of Water through the Lava- Appearance of the southern Extremity of Hawaii — Inland Route to Kaura — Description of the Mountain Taro — A Congregation of Natives at Paapohatu — Valley of Waiohinu — Account of the Pahe, a native Game — Conversation respecting the Abolition of Idolatry, with the People at Kapauku — Superstitions connected with Kaverohea — Reception at Iio- nuapo. - 172

CHAP. VIII.

Makoa objects to visiting the Volcano — Account of the Defeat and Assassi¬ nation of Keoua — Superstitions connected with the Pebbly Beach at Ninole — Hospitality of the Natives — Methods of dressing the Taro — Dis¬ tant Indications of the Volcano at Kirauea — Visit to the Burning Chasm at Ponahohoa — Journey from Kapapala — Lodging in a Cavern — Reflec¬ tion from the Volcano by Night. - 195

CHAP. IX.

Departure for the Volcano — Volcanic Sand — Superstitions of the Natives respecting the Ohelo — Description of the great Volcano — Pools of Water — Banks of Sulphur — Appearance of the Volcano at Midnight — Tradi¬ tions and Superstitions of the Natives connected with it — Names of the Gods by whom they suppose it inhabited — The little Kirauea — Ancient Heiau on the Summit of a Precipice — Mouna Roa — Probable Structure of the Island. - 218

CHAP. X.

Journey to Kearakomo — Description of the Dracaena, or Ti Plant — Account of the Application of a Priestess of Pelē to the Chiefs at Maui, to revenge the Insult offered to the Goddess — Visit of Kapiolani to the Crater — Re¬ ported Eruption of Lava in Kapapala — Sabbath in Kearakomo — Affec¬ tionate Reception of Mauae — Fragment of a Song on his Birth — Conver¬ sation with the People — Marks of an Earthquake — Description of Kaimu — Manner of Launching and Landing Canoes at Kehena — Preaching — Visit to Kinao — Popular Superstitions respecting the Origin of Dis¬ eases. - - - , - - - 252

CONTENTS.

CHAP. XI.

Conversation with the Natives — Appearance of the Country in the Vicinity of Pualaa — Extinguished Volcano in the Valley of Kapoho — Description of the Horua, a native Game-— Traditionary Story of a Contest between Pele and Kahavari — Incidents on the Journey to Hiro — Description of Ora — Public Worship at Waiakea — Conversation with a Priestess of Pelē, the goddess of the Volcanoes — Opinion of the Natives respecting the permanent Residence of Missionaries at Waiakea — Description of native Houses. - Page 286

CHAP XII.

Former Customs on Wairuku River — Affecting Instance of Infanticide — Extent of Infanticide ; Motives to its Practice ; humane Efforts of the Chiefs for preventing it — Account of the native Methods of curing Diseases — Tradition of the Origin of Medicine — Waiakea Bay — Conversation with Natives of the Marquesian Islands — Farewell Visit to Maaro — Voyage to Laupahoehoe — Description of a double Canoe — Native Hospitality. 321

CHAP. XIII.

Geographical Divisions of Hawaii — Temple of Pēle — Division of Hiro — Missionary Labours — Journey across the Hills to Towaihae — Description of Waipio Valley — Funeral Ceremonies among the Natives — Another Place of Refuge — Notions of a Future State — Voyage to Waimanu — Swimming in the Surf a popular Amusement — Ingenious Method of Staining Calabashes — Value of the Kukui Tree — Interest manifested at this Place in the Instructions of the Missionaries — Fall of immense Masses of Rocks — Halaua — Drinking Ava — Character of Tamehameha — Account of the Tabu. - - - - 350

CHAP. XIV.

Traditions connected with the Northern Part of Kohala — Methods of pro¬ curing Sandal-Wood — Manufacture of Salt at Towaihae — Visit to Wai- mea — Ascent of Mouna-Kea — Arrival of Messrs. Bishop and Goodrich at Kairua — Erection of a Place of Worship — Observance of the Sabbath — Maritime Character of the People — Government of the Islands — Hereditary Rank — Tenure of Lands — Revenue and Laws — Embarkation for Oahu. - - - 397

CHAP. XV.

Traditions respecting the Origin of the Islanders — Marriage among the Natives — Account of Foreigners who visited the Sandwich Islands before they were discovered by Captain Cook — Preaching at Kairua — Tradi¬ tions of a Deluge — Visit to Maui — Memoir of the late King and Queen of the Islands — Notice of Boki their principal Attendant — Return to Oahu. . . . 436

London; Pobliatued by H.Fisher. 5

P. Jackson, Dec? 13,1826.

MISSIONARY TOUR

THROUGH

HAWAII.

CHAP. I.

Correctness of Captain Cook's Narrative — Remarks on the im¬ pressions produced by its perusal — Actual state of the people — General account of Hawaii, Maui, Tahaurawe, Moro- kini, Ranai, Morokai, Oahu, Tauai, Niihau, and Taura — Climate , Population , and Natural History , of the Sandwich Islands — Importance of their local Situation — Establishment of a Christian Mission among them — Present from the British Government — Visit of the Deputation- Motives for removing thither — Arrival of Missionaries — • Objects of the projected Tour of Hawaii — Remarks on the Orthography of native Words.

It is nearly half a century since Captain Cook, in search of a northern passage from the Pacific to the Atlantic, discovered a group of islands, which, in honour of his patron the Earl of Sandwich, first lord of the Admiralty, he called the Sandwich Islands. The importance he attached to this discovery may be gathered from his own words ; for, when speaking of the circumstances under which the vessels anchored for the first time in Kearake’kua bay, the appearance of the natives, &c. he remarks, “We could not but be struck with the singularity of this scene ; and, perhaps, there were few on board who now lamented our having failed in our endeavours to find a northern passage homeward

B

2

MISSIONARY TOUR

last summer. To this disappointment we owed our having it in our power to revisit the Sandwich Islands, and to enrich our voyage with a discovery, which, though last, seemed, in many respects, to be the most important that had hitherto been made by Europeans throughout the extent of the Pacific ocean.” These are the last words recorded in the journal of that enter¬ prising and intelligent navigator : a melancholy event shortly afterwards occurred on the shores of this very bay, which arrested his career of discovery, and termi¬ nated his existence.

On the return of the survivors, a detailed account of the islands and their inhabitants was given to the world, and excited no small degree of interest, not only in England, but throughout the continent of Europe.

The descriptions which Captain Cook’s Voyages contained, of the almost primitive simplicity, natural vivacity, and fascinating manners, of a people, who had existed for ages, isolated, and unknown to the rest of the world, were so entirely new, and the accounts given of the mildness and salubrity of the climate, the sponta¬ neous abundance of delicious fruits, and the varied and delightful appearance of the natural scenery in the Sandwich and other islands of the Pacific, were so enchanting, that many individuals were led to ima¬ gine they were a sort of elysium, where the highly favoured inhabitants, free from the toil and care, the want and disappointment, which mar the happiness of civilized communities, dwelt in what they called a state of nature, and spent their lives in unrestrained gratification and enjoyment.

These descriptions, were, I am convinced, faithful transcripts of the first impressions made onthe minds

THROUGH HAWAII.

3

of Captain Cook and his companions, and in every respect correct, so far as their partial observation extended. A residence of eight years in the Society and Sandwich islands, has alforded me ah opportunity of becoming familiar with many of the scenes and usages described in their voyages, and I have often been struck with the fidelity with which they are uniformly portrayed. In the inferences they draw, and the reasons they assign, they are sometimes mistaken; but in the description of what they saw and heard, there is throughout a degree of accuracy, seldom if ever ex¬ ceeded in accounts equally minute and extended. Still their acquaintance with the islands and the people was superficial, and the state of society which they witnessed was different from what generally existed.

An event so important and surprising as their arrival, — the ships and the foreigners, — the colour, dress, arms, language, manners, & c. of the latter, whom they re¬ garded at first as superior beings, so powerfully affected the minds of the natives, that the ordinary avoca¬ tions of life wrere for a time suspended. The news of such an event rapidly spread through the islands, and multitudes flocked from every quarter to see the return of Orono, or the motus, (islands,) as they called their ships. The whole island was laid under requisition, to supply their wants, or contribute to their satisfaction. Hence the immense quantity of pro¬ visions presented by Taraiopu; the dances, &c. with which they were entertained. The effect also produced on the minds of those early visitors, by what they saw during their transient stay among the islands, was heightened by all the attractions of novelty, and all the complacency which such discoveries naturally inspire.

4

MISSIONARY TOUR

— Far different are the impressions produced on the minds of the missionaries who have resided for some years in the islands. Having acquired their language, observed their domestic economy, and become acquaint¬ ed with the nature of their government, the sanguinary character of their frequent wars, their absurd and oppressive system of idolatry, and the prevalence of human sacrifices, they are led, from the indubitable facts which have come under their notice, to more just and accurate conclusions ; — conclusions in awful accordance with the faithful testimony of divine revelation.

Although ten in number, only eight of the Sandwich Islands are inhabited, the other two being barren rocks, principally resorted to by fishermen. They lie within the tropic of Cancer, between 18° 50' and 22° 20' north latitude, and between 154° 53' and 100° 15' west longitude from Greenwich, about one-third of the dis¬ tance from the western coast of Mexico, towards the eastern shores of China. The Sandwich Islands are larger than the Society Islands, or any of the neigh¬ bouring clusters.

Hawaii, the principal island of the group, resembles in shape an equilateral triangle, and is somewhat less than three hundred miles in circumference, being about ninety-seven miles in length, seventy-eight in breadth, two hundred and eighty miles in circumference, and covering a surface of 4000 square miles. It is the most southern of the whole, and, on account of its great elevation, is usually the first land seen from vessels approaching the Sandwich Islands. Its broad base and regular form renders its outline different from that of any other island in the Pacific with which we are acquainted. The mountains of Hawaii,

THROUGH HAWAII.

5

unlike the peak of Teneriffe in the Atlantic, the moun¬ tains of Eimeo, and some other islands of the Pacific, do not pierce the clouds like obelisks or spires, but in most parts, and from the southern shore in particular, the ascent is gradual, and comparatively unbroken, from the sea beach to the lofty summit of Mouna Roa. The whole appearance of Hawaii is less romantic and picturesque than that of Tahiti, the principal of the Society Islands, but more grand and sublime, filling the mind of the beholder with wonder and delight. On ap¬ proaching the islands, I have more than once observed the mountains of the interior long before the coast was visible, or any of the usual indications of land had been seen. On these occasions, the elevated summit of Mouna Kea, or Mouna Roa, has appeared above the mass of clouds that usually skirt the horizon, like a stately pyramid, or the silvered dome of a magnificent temple, distinguished from the clouds beneath, only by its well-defined outline, unchanging position, and intensity of brilliancy occasioned by the reflection of the sun’s rays from the surface of the snow.

The height of these mountains has been computed by some navigators who have visited the Sandwich Islands, at 12,000, and by others at 18,000 feet. The estimate of Captain King,* we think, exceeds their actual eleva-

* In Cook’s Voyages, Captain King, speaking of Mouna-Kaah, (Kea,) remarks, that it “ may be clearly seen at fourteen leagues’ distance.” Describing Mouna-Roa, and estimating it according to the tropical line of snow, he observes, “This mountain must be at least 16,020 feet high, which exceeds the height of the Pico de Teyde, or Peak of Tenerifle, by 724 feet, according to Dr. Heberden’s computation, or 3680 according to that of Chevalier de Borda. The peaks of Mouna-Kaah appeared to be about half a mile high ; and as they are entirely covered with snow, the altitude of their summits cannot be less than 18,400

6

MISSIONARY TOUR

tion, and the peaks of Mouna Kea, in the opinion ot those of our number who have ascended its summit, are not more than 1000 feet high. But admitting the snow to remain permanent on the mountains of the torrid zone at the height of 14,600 feet, the altitude of Mouna Kea and Mouna Boa is probably not less than 15,000 feet.

The base of these mountains, is, at the distance of a few miles from the sea shore, covered with trees ; higher up, their sides are clothed with bushes, ferns, and alpine plants ; but their summits are formed of lava, partly de¬ composed, yet destitute of every kind of verdure.

There are a few inland settlements on the east and north-west parts of the island, but, in general, the in terior is an uninhabited wilderness. The heart of Hawaii, forming a vast central valley between Mouna lloa, Mouna Kea, and Mouna Huararai, is almost un¬ known, no road leads across it from the east to the western shore, but it is reported, by the natives who have entered it, to be “ bristled with forests of ohia,” or to exhibit vast tracts of sterile and indurated lava. The circumstance of large flocks of wild geese being frequently seen in the mountains, would lead to the supposition that there must be large ponds or lakes to which they resort ; but if any exist, they have hitherto remained undiscovered.

The greatest part of the land capable of cultivation, is found near the sea shore ; along which, the towns

feet. But it is probable that both these mountains may be con¬ siderably higher ; for in insular situations, the effects of the warm sea air must necessarily remove the line of snow, in equal lati¬ tudes, to a greater height, than where the atmosphere is chilled on all sides by an immense tract of perpetual snow.”

THROUGH HAWAII.

7

and villages of the natives are thickly scattered. The population at present is about 85,000, and will most probably be greatly increased by the establishment of Christianity, whose mild influence, it may reasonably be expected, will effect a cessation of war, an abolition of infanticide, and a diminution of those vices, principally of foreign origin, which have hitherto so materially con¬ tributed to the depopulation of the islands.

Hawaii is by far the largest, most populous, and im¬ portant island of the group, and, until within a few years, was the usual residence of the king, and the fre¬ quent resort of every chief of importance in the other islands. Foreigners, however, having of late found the harbours of some of the leeward islands more secure and convenient than those of Hawaii, have been induced more frequently to visit them ; and this has led the king and principal chiefs to forsake, in a great degree, the favourite residence of their ancestors, and, excepting the governor, and the chiefs of Kaavaroa, to spend the greater nart of the r time in some of the other islands.

Separated from the northern shore of Hawaii by a strait, about twenty-four miles across, the island of Maui is situated in lat. 20° N. and Ion. 157° W. This island is forty-eight miles in length, in the widest part twenty-nine miles across, about one hundred and forty miles in circumference, and covers about 600 square miles. At a distance it appears like two dis¬ tinct islands, but on nearer approach a low isthmus, about nine miles across, is seen uniting the two pen¬ insulas. The whole island is entirely volcanic, and was probably produced by the action of two adjacent vol¬ canoes, which have ejected the immense masses of

8

MISSIONARY TGUR

matter of which it is composed. The appearance of Maui resembles Tahiti more than the neighbouring island of Hawaii. The southern peninsula, which is the largest of the two, is lofty; but though its sum¬ mits are often seen above the clouds, they are never covered with snow. The high land is steep and rugged, and frequently marked with extinct craters, or indu¬ rated streams of lava ; yet whenever the volcanic mat¬ ters have undergone any degree of decomposition, the sides of the mountains, as well as the ravines by which they are intersected, are covered with shrubs and trees.

In the northern peninsula there are several extensive tracts of level and well-watered land, in a high state of cultivation; and although this part of the island is evi¬ dently of volcanic formation, the marks of recent erup¬ tions, so frequent in the southern peninsula, are seldom seen here. The population of Maui has been estimated at 18,000 or 20,000, and the number of inhabitants do not probably fall short of that number.

In the month of May 1823, a Christian Mission was commenced at Lahaina, the most important and popu¬ lous district in the island, and the endeavours of Messrs. Stewart and Richards, and the native teachers by whom they were accompanied, have been attended with the most decisive and extensive success. Public preaching on the Sabbath is regularly attended by nu¬ merous audiences, and thousands of the people are daily receiving instruction in useful knowledge, and the principles of Christianity, in the various native schools, which are patronized by the young Prince Kauikeouli, younger brother and successor to the late king, — by his sister Rahienaena, — and by all the principal chiefs of Maui. The most lasting benefits may be expected to

THROUGH HAWAII. 9

result, not only to the present race, but to every future generation of the inhabitants.

To the south of Maui, and only a few miles distant from its southern peninsula, is situated the small island of T aha ur a we, about eleven miles in length, and eight across. It is low, and almost destitute of every kind of shrub or verdure, excepting a species of coarse grass. The rocks of which it is formed are volcanic, but we are not aware of the existence of any active or extinct craters on the island ; and from its shape and appear¬ ance, it is not improbable that it once formed a part of Maui, from which it may have been detached by some violent convulsion connected with the action of the ad¬ jacent volcanoes of Maui or Hawaii. There are but few settled residents on the island, and these are con¬ sidered as under the authority of the governor of Maui.

Morokini, a barren rock, lies between these two islands, and would render the navigation of the strait exceedingly dangerous, were it not so much elevated above the sea as to be at all times visible from vessels passing between the islands. Morokini is only visited by fishermen, who on its barren surface spread their nets to dry, and for this purpose it may be considered a con¬ venient appendage to the adjacent islands.

Ranai, a compact island, seventeen miles in length and nine in breadth, lies north-west of Tahaurawe, and west of Lahaina, in Maui ; from which it is separated by a channel, not more than nine or ten miles across. Though the centre of the island is much more elevated than Tahaurawe, it is neither so high nor broken as any of the other islands : great part of it is barren, and the island in general suffers much from the long droughts which frequently prevail ; the ravines and glens, not- c

10

MISSIONARY TOUR

withstanding, are filled with thickets of small trees, and to these many of the inhabitants of Maui repair for the purpose of cutting posts and rafters for their small houses. The island is volcanic ; the soil shallow, and by no means fertile ; the shores, however, abound with shell-fish, and some species of medusae and cuttle-fish. The inhabitants are but few, probabfy not exceeding two thousand. Native teachers are endeavouring to instruct them in useful knowledge and religious truth, but no foreign missionary has yet laboured on this or the neighbouring island of Morokai, which is separated from the northern side of Ranai, and the eastern end of Maui, by a channel, which, though narrow, is suffi¬ ciently wide for the purposes of navigation.

Morokai is a long irregular island, apparently form¬ ed by a chain of volcanic mountains, forty miles in length, and not more than seven miles broad ; the mountains are nearly equal in elevation to those of Maui, and are broken by numerous deep ravines and watercourses, the sides of which are frequently clothed with verdure, and ornamented with shrubs and trees. There is but little level land in Morokai, and conse¬ quently but few plantations ; several spots, however, are fertile, and repay the toils of their cultivators. The population is greater than that of Ranai, though it does not probably exceed three thousand persons. Native teachers are engaged in the instruction of the people ; many of the natives also occasionally visit the missionary stations in the adjacent islands of Oahu and Maui, and participate in the advantages connected with these institutions.

Oahu, the most romantic and fertile of the Sandwich Islands, resembling, in the varied features of its natural

THROUGH HAWAII.

11

scenery, several of the Society Islands, — lies nearly west-north-west of Morokai, from which it is between twenty and thirty miles distant. This beautiful island is about forty-six miles long, and twenty-three wide ; its appearance from the roads off Honoruru, or Waititi, is remarkably picturesque : a chain of lofty mountains rises near the centre of the eastern part of the island, and, extending perhaps twenty miles, reaches the plain of Eva, which divides it from the distant and elevated mountains that rise in a line parallel with the north-west shore. The plain of Eva is nearly twenty miles in length, from the Pearl river to Waiarua, and in some parts nine or ten miles across : the soil is fertile, and watered by a number of rivulets, which wind their way along the deep water-courses that intersect its surface, and empty themselves into the sea. Though capable of a high state of improvement, a very small portion of it is enclosed, or under any kind of culture ; and in travelling across it, scarce a habitation is to be seen. The whole island is volcanic, and, in many parts, extinguished craters of large dimensions may be seen ; but, from the depth of mould with which they are covered, and the trees and shrubs with which they are clothed, it may be presumed that many ages have elapsed since any eruption took place. The plain of Honoruru exhibits in a singular manner the extent and effects of volcanic agency ; it is not less than nine or ten miles in length, and, in some parts, two miles from the sea to the foot of the moun¬ tains : the whole plain is covered with a rich alluvial soil, frequently two or three feet deep ; beneath this, a layer of fine volcanic ashes and cinders extends to the depth of fourteen or sixteen feet ; these ashes lie upon a stratum of solid rock by no means volcanic, but evi-

12

MISSIONARY TOUR

dently calcareous, and apparently a kind of sediment deposited by the sea, in which branches of white coral, bones of fish and animals, and several varieties of marine shells, are often found. A number of wells have been recently dug in different parts of the plain, in which, after penetrating through the calcareous rock, sometimes twelve or thirteen feet, good clear water has been always found ; the water in all these wells is perfectly free from any salt or brackish taste, though it invariably rises and falls with the tide, which would lead to the suppo¬ sition that it is connected with the waters of the adja¬ cent ocean, from which the wells are from 100 yards to three quarters of a mile distant. The rock is always hard and compact near the surface, but becomes soft and porous as the depth increases ; and it is possible that the water in these wells may have percolated through the cells of the rock, and by this process of filtration have lost its saline qualities. The base of the moun¬ tains which bound the plain in the interior, appears to have formed the original line of coast on this side of the island, but probably in some remote period an eruption took place from two broad-based truncated mountains, called by foreigners Diamond Hill and Punchbowl Hill, evidently extinguished craters : the ashes and cinders then thrown out were wafted by the trade-winds in a westerly direction, filled up the sea, and formed the pre¬ sent extensive plain ; the soil of its surface having been subsequently produced either by the decomposition of lava, or the mould and decayed vegetable matter washed down from the mountains during the rainy season of the year.

Across this plain, immediately opposite the harbour of Honoruru, lies the valley of Amianu, leading to a

THROUGH HAWAII*

13

pass in the mountains, called by the natives Ka Pari, the precipice, which is well worth the attention of every intelligent foreigner visiting Oahu. The mouth of the valley, which opens immediately behind the town of Honoruru, is a complete garden, carefully kept by its respective proprietors in a state of high cultivation ; and the ground, being irrigated by the water from a river that winds rapidly down the valley, is remarkably productive. The valley rises with a gradual ascent from the shore to the precipice, which is seven or eight miles from the town. After walking about three miles through one unbroken series of plantations, the valley becomes gradually narrower, and the mountains rise more steep on either side. The scenery is romantic and delightful: the bottom of the valley is gently undu¬ lated ; a rapid stream takes its serpentine way from one side of the valley to the other, sometimes meandering along with an unruffled surface, at other times rush¬ ing down a fall several feet, or dashing and foaming among the rocks that interrupt its progress ; the sides of the hills are clothed with verdure ; even the barren rocks that project from among the bushes are orna¬ mented with pendulous or creeping plants of various kinds ; and in several places, beautiful cascades roll their silvery streams down the steep mountain’s side into flo wing rivulets beneath. The beauty of the scenery around increases, until at length, after walking some time on a rising ground rather more steep than usual, and through a thicket of hibiscus and other trees, the traveller suddenly emerges into an open space, and, turning round a small pile of volcanic rocks, the Pari all at once bursts upon him with an almost over¬ whelming effect. Immense masses of black and fer-

14

MISSIONARY TOUR

ruginous volcanic rock, many hundred feet in nearly perpendicular height, present themselves on both sides to his astonished view ; while immediately before him, he looks down the fearful steep several hundred feet, and beholds hills and valleys, trees and cottages, mean¬ dering streams and winding paths, cultivated planta¬ tions and untrodden thickets, and a varied landscape many miles in extent, bounded by lofty mountains on the one side, and the white-crested waves of the ocean on the other — spread out before him as if by the hand of enchantment. I have several times visited this roman¬ tic spot, and once climbed the rocky precipice from the district of Kolau, on the northern side : the as¬ cent is at first gradual and easy, but in two places, towards the highest edge, the volcanic rocks appear to rise perpendicularly, presenting an even, and apparently projecting front, which it seems impossible to ascend ; but though the passage is thus difficult, and the eleva¬ tion of the upper ridge, over which the path leads, is from four to five hundred feet above the level land below, yet the natives not only pass and repass with¬ out much difficulty, but often carry heavy burdens from one side to the other. It is reported that a native female, on one occasion, carried her husband, who was in a state of intoxication, down the precipice in safety ; this appears hardly possible, and the story is probably one of those fabulous wonders, with which inquiring foreigners are often entertained during their stay among the islands. On one of my visits, however, I saw a party, heavily laden with provisions for the king’s house¬ hold, ascend the Pari , and one of them had a pig of no very small size fastened on his back, with which he climbed the steep, but not without difficulty.

THROUGH HAWAII.

15

Within a few yards of the upper edge of the pass, under the shade of surrounding bushes and trees, two rude and shapeless stone idols are fixed, one on each side of the path, which the natives call Akua no ka Pari , gods of the precipice ; they are usually covered with pieces of white tapa, native cloth; and every native who passes by to the precipice, if he intends to descend, lays a green bough before these idols, en¬ circles them with a garland of flowers, or wraps a piece of tapa round them, to render them propitious to his descent; all who ascend from the opposite side make a similar acknowledgment for the supposed pro¬ tection of the deities, whom they imagine to preside over the fearful pass. This practice appears universal, for in our travels among the islands, we have seldom pass¬ ed any steep or dangerous paths, at the commencement or termination of which we have not seen these images, with heaps of offerings lying before them. Until very recently, it is evident the influence of superstition was very strong in the minds of the great mass of the peo¬ ple, for although the natives who accompanied us in our excursions, either from a conviction of the absurdity of the notions of their countrymen, or from mere wanton¬ ness, usually overturned the idols, battered them with stones, or rolled them down the precipice or passage which they were supposed to defend ; yet on passing the same path only a very short time afterwards, we have invariably found them replaced, or, if broken, their places supplied by fresh ones. This conduct of our native companions was never the consequence of our direc¬ tions, and seldom received our approbation, for we were not ambitious to become Iconoclasts ; our object was rather to enlighten the minds of the people, and con-

16

MISSIONARY TOUR

vince them of the absurdity and evil of idolatry, to pre¬ sent before them the true God as the only legitimate object of rational homage, lead them to the exercise of a better faith, and the adoption of a purer worship ; well assured that, if under the blessing of God we succeeded in this, they themselves would, with the adoption of the Christian system, not only renounce idolatry, but abol¬ ish the appendages by which it was upheld.

The Pari of Anuanu was an important position in times of war, and the parties in possession of it were usually masters of the island. In its vicinity many sanguinary battles have been fought, and near it the independence of Oahu was lost in or about the year 1790. Tamehameha invaded Oahu ; the king of the island assembled his forces to defend his country, between Honoruru and the Pearl river; an engagement took place, in which his army was defeated, and his ally, Taeo, king of Tauai and Neehau, was slain. The king of Oahu retreated to the valley of Anuanu, where he was joined by Taiana, an ambitious and warlike chief of Hawaii. Hither Tamehameha and his victorious warriors pursued them, and, about two miles from the Pari, the last battle in Oahu was fought. Here the king of Oahu was slain, his army fled towards the pre¬ cipice, chased by the warriors of Tamehameha : at the edge of the Pari, Taiana made a stand, and defended it till he fell : the troops of the fallen chiefs still continued the conflict, till, being completely routed, a number of them, it is said four hundred, were driven headlong over the precipice, dashed to pieces among the fragments of rock that lie at its base, and Tamehameha remained master of the field, and sovereign of the island. The natives still point out the spot where the king of the

THROUGH HAWAII.

17

island stood, when he hurled his last spear at the ad¬ vancing foe, and received the fatal wound ; and many, as they pass by, turn aside from the path, place their feet on the identical spot where he is said to have stood, assume the attitude in which he is supposed to have received his mortal wound, and, poising their stalf or their spear, tell their children or companions that there the last king of Oahu died defending his country from its invading enemies.

Immediately south of the valley of Anuanu is situ¬ ated the town and harbour of Honoruru ; the harbour is the best, and indeed the only secure one at all seasons, in the Sandwich Islands, and is more frequented by foreign vessels than any other ; seldom having within it less than three or four, and sometimes upwards of thirty, lying at anchor at the same time. The town has .also, since the number of shipping has increased, be¬ come populous, and is one of the largest in the islands, usually containing 6000 or 7000 inhabitants ; it is the frequent residence of the king and principal chiefs, who are much engaged in traffic with foreigners visiting the islands, or residing on shore, for purposes of trade. There are twelve or fourteen merchants, principally Americans, who have established warehouses on shore for foreign goods, principally piece goods, hardware, crockery, hats and shoes, naval stores, &c. which they retail to the natives for Spanish dollars or sandal wood. On the eastern side of the basin is a strong fort, one hundred yards square, mounting sixty guns. It was begun by the Russians, who were expelled, but finished by the natives, from an apprehension that these foreign¬ ers, in connexion with the Russian settlements on the north-west coast of America, were about to take posses-

D

18

MISSIONARY TOUR

sion oi the island. Here also, in the month of April 1820, an American mission was commenced, which, under God, has been the means of producing a most happy moral and domestic change in the character of many of the people, whose advancement in the arts of civilized life, as well as Christian knowledge, is truly gratifying. Several thousands are under religious instruction, and numbers regularly attend the preaching of the gospel, which we earnestly hope will result in the conversion of many. Several have forsaken their grass huts, and erected comfortable stone or wooden houses, among which, one built by Karaimoku, the prime minister, is highly creditable to his perseverance and his taste.

About six miles to the west of Ilonoruru, and nearly as far from the village of Eva, on the Pearl river, there is a singular natural curiosity, a small circular lake, situated at a short distance from the sea shore, so im¬ pregnated with salt, that twice in the year the natives take out between two and three hundred barrels of fine, clear, hard, crystallized salt : this lake is not only an interesting natural curiosity, but an important ap¬ pendage to the island. It belongs to the king, and is not only useful in curing large quantities of fish, but furnishes a valuable article of commerce; quantities of it having been sent for sale to Kamtschatka, and used in curing seal skins at the different islands to which the natives have sent their vessels for that purpose, or sold in the islands to Russian vessels, from the settle¬ ments on the north-west coast of America. The popu¬ lation of Oahu is estimated at about 20,000.

North-west of Oahu, and distant from it about seventy-five miles, is situated the island of Tauai, which is a mountainous island, exceedingly romantic in

THROUGH HAWAII.

19

its appearance, but not so fertile as Oahu, or the greater part of Maui. It is forty-six miles in length, and twenty- three in breadth, and covers a surface of 520 square miles. The population probably amounts to nearly 10,000. The principal settlements are in the neighbourhood of Waimea river, the roads at the en¬ trance of which are the usual resort of vessels touching at Tauai. Near the mouth of the river is a strong fort, in excellent repair, mounting twenty-two guns. It was erected several years since, and is well adapted for defence. This, and the neighbouring island of Nihau, were not invaded and conquered by Tame- hameha, by whom all the other islands of the group were subdued. Taumuarii, the late king, rendered a tacit acknowledgment of dependence on that ambitious prince, and paid annually a nominal tribute both to him, and his son, the late Rihoriho, and, shortly before his death, which took place in 1824, he formally ceded the islands which he had governed to Karaimoku, the present regent of the Sandwich Islands, for the king, who was then absent on a visit to Great Britain. The son of the late king, and several old warriors, dissatis¬ fied with the conduct of their sovereign, took up arms to rescue the islands from the dominion of the chiefs of the windward islands ; but being defeated in a battle fought in a valley near Waimea, the' island is now un¬ der the authority of the young prince Kauikeouli, the successor to Rihoriho, and the present sovereign of the whole of the Sandwich Islands.

Soon after the commencement of the Mission in Oahu, a similar institution was commenced in Tauai, under the friendly auspices of the late king, and continued to prosper until the civil war, which followed his death.

20

MISSIONARY TOUR

obliged the Missionaries to remove from the island, and suspend their endeavours for the instruction of the na¬ tives. Since the restoration of peace, however, their labours have been resumed with more extensive and encouraging prospects of success than had been pre¬ viously enjoyed. The inhabitants are in general a hardy and industrious race ; but it is remarkable that in their language they employ the t in all those words in which the Jc would be used by the natives of the other islands.

ISTihau, a small island, twenty miles in length, and seven miles widfe, politically connected with Tauai, lies in a westerly direction, about fifteen miles distant. The inhabitants are not numerous, and, in the general features of their character, resemble the people of Tauai. These islands are celebrated throughout the whole group for the manufacture of the fine painted or variegated mats, so much admired by foreigners, and , which, for the purpose of sleeping on, the chiefs in all the islands prefer to any others. These mats are some¬ times very large, measuring eighteen or twenty yards in length, and three or four yards in breadth, yet they are woven by the hand, without any loom or frame, with surprising regularity and exactness ; they are made with a fine kind of rush, part of which they stain of a red colour with vegetable dyes, and form their beauti¬ ful patterns by weaving them into the mat at its first fabrication, or working them in after it is finished.

The natives of these islands are also distinguished for the cultivation of the yam, which grows very large, both at Tauai and Mhau, and contributes essentially to the support of the inhabitants. As they are not culti¬ vated to any extent in the other islands, many ships are induced to visit these, principally for the purpose of

THROUGH HAWAII.

21

procuring a supply ; they are not only an excellent root* but will keep a long time at sea without deterioration.

Taura, is another small island belonging to the group, lying in a south-western direction from Tauai ; but it is only a barren rock, the resort of vast numbers of aquatic birds, for the purpose of procuring which, it is occasion¬ ally visited by the natives of the windward islands.

Adjacent to the shores of most of the islands, small reefs of white coral, common throughout the Pacific, are occasionally found ; but they are not so varied in their kind, so frequently met with, nor so extensive, as in all the southern islands.

The climate is not insalubrious, though warm, and debilitating to an European constitution. There is nothing like winter ; and the only variation in the uni¬ formity of the seasons, is occasioned by the frequent and heavy rains, which usually fall between December and March, and the prevalence of southerly and variable winds during the same season. The following tabular view of a meteorogical journal, kept by the American missionaries, will shew more fully the state of the weather for a year, from August 1821, to July 1822 ; the thermometer was noted at 8 a. m. 3 p. m. and 8 p. m.

MONTHS.	1 Greatest | heat. I	j Least heat. J	1 a!	[ General | range. \	[ Mean \ Temperature.	General course of wind.	GENERAL STATE OF TIIE WEATHER.
August, 1821, - September, - - October, - - - November, - - December, - - January, 1822, - February, - - March, - - - April, - May, - - - - June, - - - - July, ....	88° 87 86 82 80 80 77 78 81 81 84 84	74° 74 73 71 62 59 61 66 62 72 71 74	14° 13 13 11 18 21 16 12 19 9 13 10	75°to85° 76-84 76-83 75-80 70- 78 68 — 76 68-75 71- 75 72- 78 75- 80 76— 81 76-83	j §>oaco® c?o cc eo	N. E. N. E. N. E. N. E. N.&N.E. Variable. N. E. N. E. Variable. N. E. N. E. N. E.	Clear ; rain but once. Rained on five days. Clear ; rain but once. Clear ; rain but once. Clear; rain twice. Rain 1 day ; 7 others cloudy. Rain 4 days ; 10 others cloudy. Rain 5 days ; 8 others cloudy. Rain 5 days ; 12 others cloudy. Rain 4 days ; 3 others cloudy. Cloudy 6 days. Rain 5 days ; 7 others cloudy.
Result for the year.	88°	61»	27«	70°lo83«	75«	N. E.	Rain on 40 days ; generally clear at other times.

22

MISSIONARY TOUR

Rain falls but seldom on the western shores of any of the islands, excepting in the season above mentioned, though showers are frequent on the eastern or windward side, and in the mountains occur almost daily.

The soil is rich in those parts which have long been free from volcanic eruptions ; but the general appear¬ ance of the country is hardly so inviting as when first discovered ; many parts, then under cultivation, are now lying waste.

The natives are in general rather above the middle stature, well formed, with fine muscular limbs, open countenances, and features frequently resembling those of Europeans. Their gait is graceful, and sometimes stately. The chiefs in particular are tall and stout, and their personal appearance is so much superior to that of the common people, that some have imagined them a distinct race. This, however, is not the fact; the great care taken of them in childhood, and their better living, have probably occasioned the difference. Their hair is black or brown, strong, and frequently curly ; their complexion is neither yellow like the Malays, nor red like the American Indians, but a kind of olive, and sometimes reddish-brown. Their arms, and other parts of the body, arc tatau’d ; but, except in one of the islands, this is by no means so common as in many parts of the Southern sea.

Compared with the inhabitants of other islands, they may be termed numerous. They were estimated by their discoverers at 400,000. There is reason to believe this was somewhat above the actual population at that time, though traces of deserted villages, and numerous enclosures formerly cultivated, but now abandoned, are every where to be met with. At present it does

THROUGH HAWAII»

23

not exceed 130,000 or 150,000, of which 85,000 in¬ habit the island of Hawaii. The rapid depopulation which has most certainly taken place within the last fifty years, is to be attributed to the frequent and deso¬ lating wars which marked the early part of Tameha- meha’s reign ; the ravages of a pestilence brought in the first instance by foreign vessels, which has twice, during the above period, swept through the islands ; the awful prevalence of infanticide ; and the melan¬ choly increase and destructive consequences of de¬ pravity and vice.

The natural history of the islands, as it regards the animal kingdom, is exceedingly circumscribed. The only quadrupeds originally found inhabiting them, were a small species of hogs, with long heads and small erect ears ; dogs, lizards, and an animal larger than a mouse, but smaller than a rat. There were no beasts of prey, nor any ferocious animals, except the hogs, which were sometimes found wild in the mountains. There are now large herds of cattle in Haw aii, and some tame ones in most of the islands, together with flocks of goats, and a few horses and sheep, which have been taken there at different times, principally from the adjacent continent of America. Horses, cattle, and goats, thrive well, but the climate appears too warm for sheep, unless they are kept on the mountains, which, in consequence of the keenness of the air, are seldom inhabited by the natives.

Birds, excepting those which are aquatic, and a species of owl that preys upon mice, are seldom seen near the shores. In the mountains they are nu¬ merous ; and the notes of one kind, whose colour is brown and yellow speckled, are exceedingly sweet, re-

24

MISSIONARY TOUR

sembling those of the English thrush. Several are remarkably beautiful, among* which may be reckoned a small kind of paroquet of a glossy purple, and a species of red, yellow, and green wookpecker, with whose feathers the gods were dressed, and the helmets and handsome cloaks of the chiefs are ornamented. But the feathered tribes of Hawaii are not in general distinguished by variety of plumage, or melody in their notes. There are wild geese in the mountains, and ducks near the lagoons or ponds in the vicinity of the sea shore ; the domestic fowl was found there by their first discoverer, and though now seldom used as an article of food, is raised for the supply of shipping.

In common with the other islands of the Pacific, they are entirely free from every noxious and poisonous reptile, excepting centipedes, which are neither large nor numerous.

Fish are not so abundant on their shores as around many of the other islands ; they have, however, seve¬ ral varieties, and the inhabitants procure a tolerable supply.

, The vegetable productions, though less valuable and abundant than in some of the islands both to the west and the south, are found in no small variety, and the most serviceable are cultivated with facility. The natives subsist principally on the roots of the arum esculentum, which they call taro, on the convolvulus batatas, or sweet potato, called by them u'dra, and uhi, or yam. The principal indigenous fruits are the uru, or bread-fruit ; the niu, or cocoa-nut ; the maia, or plantain ; the ohia, a species of eugenia ; and the strawberry and raspberry. Oranges, limes, citrons, grapes, pine-apples, papaw-apples, cucumbers, and water melons, have been

THROUGH HAWAII.

25

introduced, and, excepting the pine-apples, thrive well. French beans, onions, pumpkins, and cabbages, have also been added to their vegetables, and, though not esteemed by the natives, are cultivated to some extent, for the purpose of supplying the shipping. Sugar-cane is indigenous, and grows to a large size, though it is not much cultivated. Large tracts of fertile land lie waste in most of the islands ; and sugar-cane, together with cotton, colfee, and other valuable intertropical productions, might be easily raised in considerable quantities, which will, probably, be the case when the natives become more industrious and civilized.

The local situation of the Sandwich Islands is im¬ portant, and highly advantageous for purposes of commerce, &c. On the north are the Russian settle¬ ments in Kamtschatka, and the neighbouring coast ; to the north-west the islands of Japan ; due west the Parian islands, Manilla in the Philippines, and Can¬ ton in China ; and on the east the coast of Cali¬ fornia and Mexico. Hence they are so frequently resorted to by vessels navigating the northern Pacific. The establishment of the independent states of South America has greatly increased their importance, as they lie in the track of vessels passing from thence to China, or Calcutta and other parts of India, and are not only visited by these, but by those who trade for skins, &c. with the natives of the north-west coast of America.

From the time of their discovery, the Sandwich Islands were unvisited until 1786, when Captains Dixon and Portlock, in a trading voyage to the north-west coast for furs and sea-otter skins, anchored, and pro¬ cured refreshments in the island of Oahu. The island

26

MISSIONARY TOUR

of Maui was visited about the same time by the unfor¬ tunate La Perouse. After this period the islands were frequently visited by vessels engaged in the fur trade. Captain Douglas, of the Iphigenia, and Captain Metcalf, of the Eleanor, an American snow, were nearly cut off by the turbulent chiefs, who were desirous to procure the guns and ammunition belonging to their vessels, to aid them in carrying their purposes of conquest into effect. The son of the latter, a youth of sixteen, who commanded a schooner, called the Fair American, which accompanied the Eleanor from Canton, when close in with the land off Mouna Huararai, was becalmed ; the natives thronged on board, threw young Metcalf over¬ board, seized and plundered the vessel, and murdered all the crew, excepting the mate, whose name was Isaac Davis. He resided many years with Tameha- meha, who very severely censured the chief under whose direction this outrage had been committed. A seaman whose name is Young, belonging to the Eleanor, who was on shore at the time, was prevented from gaining his ves¬ sel, but was kindly treated by the king, and is still living at Towaihae.

In the years 1792 and 1793, Captain Vancouver, while engaged in a voyage of discovery in the North Pacific, spent several months at the Sandwich Islands ; and notwithstanding the melancholy catastrophe which had terminated the life, of Captain Cook, whom he had ac¬ companied, and the treacherous designs of the warlike and ambitious chiefs towards several of his predeces¬ sors, he met with the most friendly treatment from all parties, and received the strongest expressions of con¬ fidence from Tamehameha, sovereign of the whole group, who had been wounded in the skirmish that followed

THROUGH HAWAII.

27

the death of their discoverer, but who had ever lament¬ ed with deepest regret that melancholy event. He alone had prevented the murderous intentions of his chieftains towards former vessels from being carried into effect ; and it was his uniform endeavour to shew every mark of friendship to those who visited his dominions. His attachment to the English induced him, during the stay of Captain Vancouver, to cede the island of Hawaii to the British crown, and to place himself and his domi¬ nions under British protection ; an act which was re¬ peated by his son, the late king, on his accession to the sovereignty of all the islands.

The natives received many advantages from the visit of Captain Vancouver ; a breed of cattle, and a variety of useful seeds, had been given. Generous and dis¬ interested in his whole behaviour, he secured their friendship and attachment, and many still retain grate¬ ful recollections of his visit.

After his departure, the islands were seldom resorted to, except by traders from the United States of America, who, having discovered among them the sandal-wood, conveyed large quantities of it to Canton, where it is readily purchased by the Chinese, manufactured into incense, and burnt in their idol temples. -Subsequently, the South Sea whalers began to fish in the North Pacific, when the Sandwich Islands afforded a convenient ren¬ dezvous for refitting and procuring refreshments during their protracted voyages, particularly since they have found the sperm whale on the coast of Japan, where of late years the greater parts of their cargoes have been procured.

So early as the year 1798, the London Missionary Society despatched the ship Duff to the South Sea

28

MISSIONARY TOUR

islands ; and early in 1797, missionary settlements were established in the Marquesan, Friendly, and Society islands. The missionary left at the Marquesas, after spending about a year among the people, returned. The establishment in the Friendly Islands was relin¬ quished, though not till some of the individuals of which it was composed had fallen a sacrifice to the fury of the islanders in their intestine wars. The missionaries in the Society Islands have been enabled to maintain their ground, though exposed to many dangers and priva¬ tions, and some ill usage. The greater part of them was at one time obliged to leave the islands, in conse¬ quence of violent assaults, and the civil wars among the natives. Several of those who left, returned after a very short absence, and rejoined their companions who had remained, and the labours of the missionaries were continued with patience and industry for fifteen years, from the time of their first establishment, without any apparent effect. After this protracted period of dis¬ couragement, God has granted them the most astonish¬ ing success ; and the happy change in the outward cir¬ cumstances of the people, and the great moral renova¬ tion which the reception of the gospel has effected, have more than realized the ardent desires of the mis¬ sionaries themselves, and the most sanguine anticipa¬ tions of the friends of the mission.

But though the effects of the London Missionary Society were continued under appearances so inauspi¬ cious, with a degree of perseverance which has since been most amply compensated, various causes pre¬ vented their making any efforts towards communicating the knowledge of Christ to the Sandwich islanders. While their southern neighbours were enjoying all the

THROUGH HAWAII.

29

advantages of Christianity, they remained under the thick darkness, and moral wretchedness, of one of the most cruel systems of idolatry that ever enslaved any portion of the human species.

The attention of the American churches was at length directed to the Sandwich Islands. Their sym¬ pathies were awakened, and resulted in a generous effort to meliorate the wretchedness of their inhabitants. A society already existed, under the name of the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Mis¬ sions , the chief seat of whose operations was in the city of Boston, Massachusetts, though including among its members many distinguished individuals in different states of the Union.

In the autumn of 1819, a select and efficient band of missionaries was appointed by this society to establish a mission in the Sandwich Islands. They landed at Kairua, in Hawaii, on the 4th of February, 1820, and had the satisfaction to find the way in a measure pre¬ pared for them, by one of those remarkable events which distinguish the eras in the history of nations, whether barbarous or civilized. This was no other than the abolition of the national idolatry, which, though it was closely interwoven with all the domestic and civil institutions of every class of the inhabitants, upheld by the combined influence of a numerous body of priests, the arbitrary power of warlike chiefs, and the sanction of venerable antiquity, had been publicly and authori¬ tatively prohibited by the king only a few months before their arrival. The motives which influenced the monarch of Hawaii in this decisive measure, the war it occasioned, and the consequences which ensued, are detailed in the following narrative. The missionaries

30

MISSIONARY TOUR

could not but view it as a remarkable interposition of divine Providence in their favour, and a happy prelude to the introduction of that gospel which they had con¬ veyed to their shores. They had naturally expected that their landing would be opposed by the institutions of a system, which, however degrading and oppressive in its influence, had presented more than human claims to the support of its adherents, — and to be withstood by a numerous and influential class of priests, whose craft would be endangered so soon as they should present the paramount claims of the true God to the homage of the heart and uniform obedience of the life. Instead of this, they found the laws of the Tabu entirely abro¬ gated, and priests no longer existing as a distinct body, but merged in the other classes of the community. The whole nation was without any religion, and in this respect at least prepared to receive the dispensation of the gospel, recommended as it was, by an exemption from all the miseries of their former system, and the animating prospects of life and immortality. Notwith¬ standing this, the missionaries, in the commencement of their efforts to instruct the natives, met with some opposition from misinformed and jealous individuals, who entertained groundless suspicions as to the ultimate object of their mission. This, however, was overruled by Karaimoku, Keopuolani, and other leading chiefs, and the king willingly allowed them to remain at least for a year.

They were accompanied by several native youths, whom a roving disposition had induced to visit America, where they had been educated in a school for instructing the aborigines of various heathen nations, designated the Foreign Mission School , and who, having given

THROUGH HAWAII.

31

pleasing evidence of piety, and understanding English, were qualified to act as interpreters, and assist the missionaries in the acquisition of the language. The difficult task of settling the orthography of an unwritten language, required all their energies ; but by diligent application, and the help of the elementary books in the dialects of the Society Islands and New Zealand, they were enabled, in the beginning of 1822, to put to press the first sheet of a Hawaiian spelling-book, and to present the natives with the elements of the vernacular tongue in a printed form. Schools were established on a scale less extended than the missionaries desired, but not without advantage, as many of their early scholars made encouraging proficiency, and have since become useful teachers. The more public instructions were generally well received by the people.

Tamehameha, who had governed the islands thirty years, and whose decease took place not twelve months before their arrival, had invariably rendered the most prompt and acceptable aid to those English vessels which had touched at the islands. In return for the friendship so uniformly manifested, the British govern¬ ment instructed the governor of New South Wales to order a schooner to be built at Port Jackson, and sent as a present to the king of the Sandwich Islands. In the month of February, 1822, his majesty’s colonial cutter, Mermaid, having in charge the vessel designed for the king of Hawaii, put into the harbour of Huahine for refreshments. The captain of the Mermaid politely offered a passage either to the deputation from the London Missionary Society, then at Huahine, or any of the missionaries who might wish to visit the Sandwich Islands. We had long been anxious to establish a

MISSIONARY TOUR

32

mission among the Marquesas ; and as he intended touching at those islands on his return, it appeared a very favourable opportunity for accomplishing it, and at the same time visiting the American missionaries, the intelligence of whose embarkation for Hawaii had been previously received. Two pious natives, members of the church, and one of them a chief of some rank in the islands, were selected for the Marquesas ; and I accompanied the deputation on their visit to Hawaii, for the purpose of aiding in the establishment of the native teachers in the former islands, observing how the people wxre disposed to receive instructors, and obtain¬ ing such other information as might be serviceable in directing our future endeavours to maintain permanent missionary stations among them.

In the month of March we reached the Sandwich Islands, and received a cordial welcome, not only from the American missionaries, but from the king and chiefs, to whom the generous present of the British government was peculiarly acceptable. Shortly after our arrival, a public council of the king and chiefs of Hawaii was held at Oahu. Anna and his companion, from Huahine, were invited to attend, and had an opportunity of answering the inquiries of the king and chiefs relative to the events which had transpired in the Society Islands, and of testifying to the feelings of friend¬ ship and esteem entertained by Pomare, and the rulers of those islands, much to the satisfaction oi the latter ; who were convinced that the reports which had been circulated among them respecting the hostile intentions of the southern islanders, and the dangerous influence of Christian missions there, were totally groundless*

THROUGH HAWAII.

33

We did not expect, when we first arrived, to spend more than a fortnight or three weeks in the Sandwich Islands ; but circumstances unforeseen, and entirely beyond our control, detained us four months in Oahu. In two months I was enabled to converse with facility, and preach to the people in their own language, which I soon perceived was only a dialect of that spoken by the natives of Tahiti, and the neighbouring islands* Auna and his companion were at the same time dili¬ gently and acceptably employed in teaching some chiefs of distinction in Hawaii, who requested that he would relinquish his voyage to the Marquesas, and fix his resi¬ dence among them ; to which he cheerfully consented. Several of the principal chiefs also expressed a wish that I should associate with the teachers already en¬ gaged in their instruction. The American missionaries at the same time affectionately inviting me to join them, and the measure meeting the approbation of the de¬ putation, it appeared my duty to comply with their request.

Early in February, 1823, 1 returned to Oahu with my family, experienced a kind reception from the king and chiefs, and was privileged to commence my missionary pursuits in harmonious co-operation with my prede¬ cessors, the American missionaries, who were diligently employed in their benevolent exertions for the spiritual well-being of the nation ; avoiding, as they have uni¬ formly done ever since, all interference with the civil, commercial, and political concerns of the people, and attending solely to their instruction in useful knowledge and religious truth.

The difficulties attending the acquisition of the lan¬ guage, and other circumstances, had hitherto confined the

F

34

MISSIONARY TOUR

labours of the missionaries almost entirely to the islands of Oahu and Tauai ; but in April, 1823, a reinforcement arriving- from America, enabled them to extend their efforts, particularly towards Maui and Hawaii. In order that arrangements for the establishment and per¬ manent maintenance of missionary stations in the latter, the largest, most important, and most populous island of the group, might be made with all the advantages of local knowledge, it was agreed that three of the American missionaries and myself should visit and explore that interesting island, to investigate the reli¬ gious and moral condition of the people, communicate to them the knowledge of Christ, unfold the benevolent objects of the mission, inquire whether they were willing to receive Christian teachers, and select the most eli¬ gible places for missionary stations. These, though the principal, were not the only objects that occupied our attention during the tour. We availed ourselves of the opportunities it afforded, to make observations on the structure of the island, its geographical character, natural scenery, productions, and objects of curiosity ; and to become more fully acquainted with the peculiar features of the system of idolatry, the traditions, man¬ ners, and customs of the inhabitants, — a detailed ac¬ count of which is given in the following narrative.

Before entering upon the tour, a few remarks on the orthography of the Hawaiian names which are occa¬ sionally introduced, explaining the reasons for its adoption, and assisting in the pronunciation of native words, will probably be acceptable to most of our readers.

The visits which most foreigners have paid to the Sandwich and other islands of the Pacific, have been

THROUGH HAWAII.

35

too transient to allow them, however well qualified they may have been, to become acquainted with the nice distinction of vowel sounds, and peculiar structure, of the aboriginal languages of the islands ; and those indi¬ viduals whom purposes of commerce have induced to remain a longer period among them, whatever facility they may have acquired in speaking it, have not attended to its orthographical construction, but have adopted that method of spelling names of persons and places which happen to have been used by those of their predecessors, with whose printed accounts they were most familiar.

The want of a standard orthography cannot be better illustrated, than by noticing the great variety of methods adopted by different voyagers to represent the same word. We have seen the name of Tamehameha, the late king, spelt in various publications twelve or four¬ teen different ways ; and the same variety has also pre¬ vailed in other popular names, though perhaps not to an equal extent. The above word is a reduplication of the simple word meha , (lonely, or solitary,) with the definite article Ta prefixed, which is a part of the name ; though rejected in Cook’s Voyages, where he is called Maiha- maiha. Captain Vancouver calls him Tamaahmaah, which is somewhat nearer.

This disagreement in different writers arises, in the first place, from the deficiency in the vowel characters as used in the English language, for expressing the native vowel sounds. The English language has but one sign, or letter, for the vowel sound in the first syl¬ lable of father and fable, or the words tart and tale ; but in Hawaiian the sense of these sounds, which fre¬ quently occur unconnected with any other, is so differ-

36

MISSIONARY TOUR

ent, that a distinct character is essential. The first sound is often a distinct word, and frequently marks the future tense of the verb, while the second sound distin¬ guishes the past, and is also a distinct word. These two sounds often occur together, forming two distinct syllables, as in the interrogation e-a ? what ? and the word he-a, to call. In the English language, two let¬ ters, called double vowels, are used to lengthen the same sound, as ee in thee, or to express one totally dif¬ ferent, as oo in pool ; but in Hawaiian there is often a repetition of the vowel sound, without any intervening consonant, or other vowel sound, as in a-a, a bag or pocket, e-e, to embark, i-i, a name of a bird, o-o, an agricultural instrument ; which must be sounded as two distinct syllables. Hence when the ee is employed to express a lengthened sound of e, as in Owhyhee, and oo to signify the sound of u in rule, as in Karakakooa, which is generally done by European visitors ; it is not possible to express by any signs those native words in which the double vowels occur, which are invariably two distinct syllables.

Another cause of the incorrectness of the orthography of early voyagers to*these islands, has been a want of better acquaintance with the structure of the language, which would have prevented their substituting a com¬ pound for a single word. This is the case in the words Otaheiti, Otaha, and Owhyhee, which ought to be Tahiti, Tahaa, and Hawaii. The O is no part of these words, but is the sign of the case, denoting it to be the nominative answering to the question who or what, which would be O wai? The sign of the case being prefixed to the interrogation, the answer uniformly corresponds, as.

THROUGH HAWAII.

37

Norn. O wai ia aina ? — What that land ?

Ans. O Hawaii : — Hawaii.

Pos. No hea oe ? — Of whence you ?

Ans. No Hawaii : — Of or belonging to Hawaii.

Obj. Hoe oe i hea ? — Sailing you to where ?

Ans. I Hawaii : — To Hawaii.

Mai hea mai oe ? — From whence you ?

Ans. Mai Hawai mai : — From Hawaii.

In pronouncing the word Ha-wai-i, the Ha is sounded short as in Hah, the wai as wye, and the final i as e in me.

Atooi in Cook’s voyages, Atowai in Vancouver’s, and Atoui in one of his contemporaries, is also a com¬ pound of two words, a Tauai, literally, and Tauai. The meaning of the word tauai is to light upon, or to dry in the sun ; and the name, according to the account of the late king, was derived from the long droughts which sometimes prevailed, or the large pieces of timber which have been occasionally washed upon its shores. Being the most leeward island of importance, it was probably the last inquired of, or the last name repeated by the people to the first visitors. For should the natives be pointed to the group, and asked the names of the different islands, beginning with that farthest to windward, and proceeding west, they would say, O Hawaii, Maui, Ranai, Morotai, Oahu a (and) Tauai : the copulative conjunction preceding the last member of the sentence, would be placed immediately before Tauai ; and hence, in all probability, it has been attach¬ ed to the name of that island, which has usually been written, after Cook’s orthography, Atooi ; or Atowai , after Vancouver.

38

MISSIONARY TOUR

The more intelligent among the natives, particularly the chiefs, frequently smile at the manner of spelling the names of places and persons, in published accounts of the islands, which they occasionally see, and doubt¬ less wonder how we can employ two letters of the same kind to express two distinct sounds, as aa , for the sound of a in mark, and a in make ; or oo for a sound so distinct as u.

The orthography employed in the native names which occur in the succeeding narrative, is in accordance with the power or sound of the letters composing the Hawaiian alphabet, and the words are represented as nearly as possible to the manner in which they are pronounced by the natives. A is always as a in father, or shorter as a in the first syllable of aha, e as a in hate, i as i in machine, or ee in thee, o as o in note, u as oo in food, or short as in bull, and the diphthong ai as * in wine or mine. The consonants are sounded as in English.

The native words may be correctly pronounced by attending to the above sounds of the vowels. The fol¬ lowing list of the principal names will likewise assist in the proper pronunciation of Hawaiian words. The h is inserted after the a, only to secure that vowel’s being sounded as in the exclamation ah !

TLACES.

Ha-wai, pronounced as Ha-wye-e

O-a-hu . O-ah-hoo

Ta.u-ai . Tow-i, or Tow-eye

Mau-i ...... . . . Mow-e

Kai-ru-a . Ky-roo-ah

Ke-a-ra-ke-ku-a ...... Kay-a-ra-kay-koo-ah

THROUGH HAWAII.

39

Wai-a-ke-a . . . .
Wai-pi-o .
Ki-rau-e-a . . . .	. Ke-row-ay-ah
Pu-ho-nu-a . . . .	...... Poo-ho-noo-ah
Mou-na-hu-a-ra-	rai .... Mow-nah-hoo-ah-ra-
Mou-na Ro-a . .
Mou-na Ke-a . .
Ka-a-va-ro-a . .	...... Kah-ah-vah-ro-ah
	PERSONS.
Ta-me-ha-me-ha
Ri-ho-ri-ho . . . .
Ta-u-mu-a-ri-i , .	. Ta-oo-moo-ah-re-e
Ka-a-hu-ma-nu	. Ka-ah-hoo-ma-noo
Ke-o-pu-o-la-ni	. Kay-o-poo-o-lah-ne
Ku-a-ki-ni . . . .	...... Koo-ah-ke-ne
Ka-rai-mo-ku . .
Bo-ki .
Li-li-ha .
Mau-ae .
Ma-ko-a . .

40

MISSIONARY TOUR

CHAP. II.

Voyage of part of the Missionaries to Kairua — Welcome from the Governor of Hawaii — A Breakfast Scene— Description of an' extensive Cavern— -Curious natural Phenomenon , occa¬ sioned hy the Sea — Situation and Appearance of Kairua — Excursion to the Plantations — Christian Zeal of a Chief — Ruins of a Heiau — Notice of Captain Cook — Account of Mouna Huararai — • Volcanic Phenomena.

Taumuarii, the friendly king of Tauai, having gene¬ rously offered the missionaries, chosen to make the tour of Hawaii, (Owhyhee,) a passage in one of his vessels bound from Oahu to Kairua ; Messrs. Thurston, Bishop, and Goodrich, repaired on board in the afternoon of June 24, 1823. They were accompanied by Mr. Har¬ wood, an ingenious mechanic, whom curiosity, and a desire to assist them, had induced to join their party. The indisposition of Mrs. Ellis prevented my proceed¬ ing in the same vessel, but I hoped to follow in a few days.

At 4 p. M. the brig was under weigh, standing to the s. e. Having cleared the bar, and the reefs at the entrance of the harbour, the trade-wind blowing fresh from the N. E. they were soon out of sight of Honoruru. They passed the islands of Morokai, Ranai, and the principal part of Maui (Mowee) during the night, and at daybreak on the 25th were off Tahaurawe, a small island on the south side of Maui. The Haaheo Ha - ivaii, (Pride of Hawaii,) another native vessel/formerly

'■£ 'ī n "0° S ■ -Vi -£q_ -e^Sftqua; - : ncrpuo W

THROUGH HAWAII.

41

the Cleopatra’s barge, soon after hove in sight ; she did not, however, come up with them, but tacked, and stood for Lahaina. In the evening, the wind, usually fresh in the channel between Maui and Hawaii, blew so strong, that they were obliged to lay-to for about three hours ; when it abated, and allowed them to proceed.

On the 26th, at 4 p. m. the vessel came to anchor in Kairua bay. The missionaries soon after went on shore, grateful for the speedy and comfortable passage with which they had been favoured, having been only forty-nine hours from Oahu, which is about 156 miles to the leeward of Kairua. They were heartily wel¬ comed by the governor, Kuakini, usually called by the foreigners, John Adams, from his having adopted the name of a former president of the United States of Ame¬ rica. They took tea with him ; and after expressing their gratitude to God in the native language with the governor and his family, retired to rest in an apart¬ ment kindly furnished for them in his own house.

The next morning their baggage was removed from the vessel, and deposited in a small comfortable house, formerly belonging to Tamehameha, but which the governor directed them to occupy so long as they should remain at Kairua. He also politely invited them to his table, during their stay ; in consequence of which, without forgetting their character, they sat down to their morning repast. Their breakfast room presented a singular scene. They were seated around a small table with the governor and one or two of his friends, who, in addition to the coffee, fish, vegeta¬ bles, & c. with which it was furnished, had a large wooden bowl of poe, a sort of thin paste made of baked taro, beat up and diluted with water, placed by the

42

MISSIONARY TOUR

side of their plates, from which they frequently took very hearty draughts. Two favourite lap-dogs sat on the same sofa with the governor, one on his right hand and the other on his left, and occasionally received a bit from his hand, or the fragments on the plate from which he had eaten. A number of his punahele , (favourite chiefs,) and some occasional visitors, sat in circles on the floor, around large dishes of raw fish, baked hog, or dog, or goat, from which each helped him¬ self without ceremony, while a huge calabash of poe passed rapidly round among them. They became ex¬ ceedingly loquacious and cheerful during their meal; and several who had been silent before, now laughed loud, and joined with spirit in the mirth of their com¬ panions. Neat wooden dishes of water were handed to the governor and his friends, both before and after eating, in which they washed their hands. Uncivilized nations are seldom distinguished by habits of cleanli¬ ness ; but this practice, we believe, is an ancient custom, generally observed by the chiefs, and all the higher orders of the people, throughout the islands.

Kairua, though healthy and populous, is destitute of fresh water, except what is found in pools, or small streams, in the mountains, four or five miles from the shore. An article so essential to the maintenance of a missionary station, it was desirable to procure, if pos¬ sible, nearer at hand.* As soon therefore as break¬ fast was ended, the party walked through the district in a south-east direction, to examine the ground, with

* The late king Tamehameha used frequently to beg a cask of water from the captains of vessels touching at Kairua ; and it is one of the most acceptable presents a captain going to this sta¬ tion could make, either to the chiefs or missionaries^

THROUGH HAWAII.

43

a view to discover the most eligible place for digging a well.

The whole face of the country marked decisively its volcanic origin ; and in the course of their excursion they entered several hollows in the lava, formed by its having cooled and hardened on the surface, while, in a liquid state underneath, it had continued to flow towards the sea, leaving a crust in the shape of a tunnel, or arched vault, of varied thickness and extent. Before they returned, they also explored a celebrated cavern in the vicinity, called Raniakea. After entering it by a small aperture, they passed on in a direction nearly parallel with the surface ; sometimes along a spacious arched way, not less than twenty-five feet high and iwenty wide ; at other times, by a passage so narrow, that they could with difficulty press through, till they had pro¬ ceeded about 1200 feet ; here their progess was arrested by a pool of water, wide, deep, and as salt as that found in the hollows of the lava within a few yards of the sea. This latter circumstance, in a great degree, damped their hopes of finding fresh water by digging through the lava. More than thirty natives, most of them carrying torches, accompanied them in their descent; and on arriving at the water, simultaneously plunged in, ex¬ tending their torches with one hand, and swimming about with the other. The partially illuminated heads of the natives, splashing about in this subterranean lake ; the reflection of the torch-light on its agitated surface ; the frowning sides and lofty arch of the black vault, hung with lava, that had cooled in every imagi¬ nable shape ; the deep gloom of the cavern beyond the water ; the hollow sound of their footsteps ; and the varied reverberations of their voices, produced a sin-

44

MISSIONARY TOUR

gular effect ; and it would have required but little aid from the fancy, to have imagined a resemblance between this scene and the fabled Stygian lake of the poets. The mouth of the cave is about half a mile from the sea, and the perpendicular depth to the water probably not less than fifty or sixty feet. The pool is occasionally visited by the natives, for the purpose of bathing, as its water is cool and refreshing. From its ebbing and flowing with the tide, it has probably a direct com¬ munication with the sea.

In the afternoon, Messrs. Thurston and Bishop walked out in a N. w. direction, till they reached the point that forms the northern boundary of the bay, on the eastern side of which Kairua is situated. It runs three or four miles into the sea ; is composed entirely of lava ; and was formed by an eruption from one of the large craters on the top of Mouna Huararai, (Mount Huararai,) which, about twenty-three years ago, inundated several villages, destroyed a number of plantations and extensive fish-ponds, filled up a deep bay twenty miles in length, and formed the present coast.

An Englishman, who has resided thirty -eight years in the islands, and who witnessed the above eruption, has frequently told us he was astonished at the irresistible impetuosity of the torrent. Stone walls, trees, and houses, all gave way before it ; even large masses or rocks of hard ancient lava, when surrounded by the fiery stream, soon split into small fragments, and falling into the burning mass, appeared to melt again, as borne by it down the mountain’s side.

Numerous offerings were presented, and many hogs thrown alive into the stream, to appease the anger

THROUGH HAWAII.

45

of the gods, by whom they supposed it was directed, and to stay its devastating course. All seemed un¬ availing, until one day the king Tamehamea went, attended by a large retinue of chiefs and priests, and, as the most valuable offering he could make, cut off part of his own hair, which was always considered sacred, and threw it into the torrent. A day or two after, the lava ceased to flow. The gods, it was thought, were satisfied; and the king acquired no small degree of influence over the minds of the people, who, from this circumstance, attributed their escape from threatened destruction to his supposed interest with the deities of the volcanoes.

In several places they observed that the sea rushes with violence twenty or thirty yards along the cavities beneath the lava, and then, forcing its waters through the apertures in the surface, forms a number of beautiful jets d’eau, which falling again on the rocks, roll rapidly back to the ocean.

They enjoyed a fine view of the town and adjacent country. The houses, which are neat, are generally built on the sea-shore, shaded with cocoa-nut and kou trees, which greatly enliven the scene. The environs were cultivated to a considerable extent ; small gardens were seen among the barren rocks on which the houses are built, wherever soil could be found sufficient to nourish the sweet potato, the water melon, or even a few plants of tobacco, and in many places these seemed to be growing literally in the fragments of lava, collect¬ ed in small heaps around their roots.

The next morning, Messrs. Thurston, Goodrich, and Harwood, walked towards the mountains, to visit the high and cultivated parts of the district. After travel-

46

MISSIONARY TOUR

ling over the lava for about a mile, the hollows in the rocks began to be filled with a light brown soil ; and about half a mile further, the surface was entirely covered with a rich mould, formed by decayed vegetable matter and decomposed lava. Here they enjoyed the agreeable shade of bread-fruit and ohia trees ; the latter is a deciduous plant, a variety of eugenia, resembling the eugenia malaccensis , bearing a beautifully red pulpy fruit, of the size and consistence of an apple, juicy, but rather insipid to the taste. The trees are elegant in form, and grow to the height of twenty or thirty feet ; the leaf is oblong and pointed, and the flowers are attached to the branches by a short stem. The fruit is abundant, and is generally ripe, either on different places in the same island, or on different islands, during all the sum¬ mer months. The path now lay through a beautiful part of the country, quite a garden compared with that through which they had passed on first leaving the town. It was generally divided into small fields, about fifteen rods square, fenced with low stone walls, built with fragments of lava gathered from the surface of the enclosures. These fields were planted with bananas, sweet potatoes, mountain taro, paper mulberry plants, melons, and sugar-cane, which flourished luxuriantly in every direction. Having travelled about three or four miles through this delightful region, and passed several valuable pools of fresh water, they arrived at the thick woods, which extend several miles up the sides of the lofty mountain that rises immediately behind Kairua. Among the various plants and trees that now presented themselves, they were much pleased with a species of tree ferns, whose stipes were about five feet long, and the stem about fourteen feet high, and

THROUGH HAWAII.

47

one foot in diameter. A smart shower of rain (a frequent occurrence in the mountains) arrested their further pro¬ gress, and obliged them to return to their lodgings, where they arrived about five in the afternoon, gratified, though fatigued, by their excursion.

Mr. Bishop called on Thomas Hopu, the native teacher, who has for some time resided at Kairua, and was pleased to find him patient under the inconveni¬ ences to which his situation necessarily subjects him, and anxious to promote the best interests of his coun¬ trymen.

29th. The Sabbath morning dawned upon the mission¬ aries at Kairua under circumstances unusually ani¬ mating, and they prepared to spend this holy day in extending, as widely as possible, their labours among the benighted people around them. Mr. Thurston preached in the native language twice at the governor’s house, to attentive audiences. Mr. Bishop and Thomas Hopu proceeded early in the morning to Kaavaroa, a village about fourteen miles distant, on the north side of Kearake’kua, (Karakakooa,) where they arrived at 11 A. m. Kamakau, chief of the place, received them with many expressions of gladness, led them to his house, and provided some refreshments; after which, they walked together to a ranai , (house of cocoa-nut leaves,) which he had some time ago erected for the public worship of Jehovah. Here they found about a hundred of his people assembled, and waiting their arrival. Mr. Bishop, with the aid of Thomas, preached to them from John iii. L6. and endeavoured in the most familiar manner to set before them the great love of God in sending his Son to die for sinners, and the necessity of forsaking sin, and believing on

48

MISSIONARY TOUR

him, in order to eternal life. Towards the latter part of the discourse, the preacher was interrupted by Ka- makau, who, anxious that his people might receive the greatest possible benefit by the word spoken, began earnestly to exhort them to listen and regard, telling them, their salvation depended on their attention to the truths which they heard. After the service was con¬ cluded, he again addressed them, affectionately recom¬ mending them to consider these things.

Kamakau wished them to meet with the people again, but as the day was far spent, they thought it best to return. He then told them, that after their departure he should assemble his people, and repeat to them what they had heard. He asked many questions on religious subjects, several respecting the heavenly state ; and appeared interested in the answers that were given ; especially when informed that heaven was a holy pface, into which nothing sinful could enter.

As they went from his house to the beach, they passed by a large idol, that Kamakau had formerly worshipped, lying prostrate and mutilated on the rocks, and washed by the waves of the sea as they rolled on the shore. It was a huge log of wood, rudely carved, presenting a hideous form, well adapted to infuse terror into an ignorant and superstitious mind. On his being asked why he had worshipped that log of wood? he answered, — because he was afraid he would destroy his cocoa-nuts. But were you not afraid to destroy it? “No, I found he did me neither good nor harm. I thought he was no god, and threw him away.” Bid¬ ding him farewell, they stepped into their canoe, and returned to Kairua, where they arrived in the evening^ encouraged by the incidents of the day.

THROUGH HAWAII.

49

Kamakau is a chief of considerable rank and influ¬ ence in Hawaii, though not immediately connected with any of the reigning family. He is cousin to Naihe, the friend and companion of Tamehameha, and the prin¬ cipal national orator of the Sandwich Islands. His person, like that of the chiefs in general, is noble and engaging. He is about six feet high, stout, well-pro¬ portioned, and more intelligent and enterprising than the people around him. For some time past he has established family worship in his house, and the obser¬ vance of the Sabbath throughout his district ; having erected a place for the public worship of the true God, in which, every Lord’s day, he assembles his people for the purpose of exhortation and prayer, which he con¬ ducts himself. He is able to read, writes an easy and legible hand, has a general knowledge of the first princi¬ ples of Christianity, and, what is infinitely better, ap¬ pears to feel their power on his heart, and evince their purity in his general conduct. His attainments are truly surprising, manifesting a degree of industry and perseverance rarely displayed under similar circum¬ stances. His sources of information have been very limited. An occasional residence of a few weeks at Honoruru, one or two visits of the missionaries and of some of the native teachers to his house, and letters from Naihe, are the chief advantages he has enjoyed. He appears, indeed, a modem Cornelius, and is a striking manifestation of the sovereignty of that grace of which we trust he has been made a partaker ; and we rejoice in the pleasing hope that He who has “ begun a good work, will perform it until the day of Christ.”

In the forenoon of the first of July, two posts of observation were fixed, and a base line of 200 feet was

H

50

MISSIONARY TOUR

measured, in order to ascertain the height of Mouna Huararai ; but the summit being covered with clouds, they were obliged to defer their observation. In the afternoon they walked through the s. e. part of the town to select a spot in which to dig for fresh water. After an accurate investigation of the places adjacent, in which they thought it might be found, they chose a valley, about half a mile from the residence of the governor, and near the entrance of Raniakea, as the spot where they were most likely to meet with success

The 4th of July being the anniversary of the Ame¬ rican independence, guns were fired at the fort, the colours hoisted, and a hospitable entertainment given at the governor’s table. The missionaries employed the greater part of the day at the well, which early in the morning they had commenced.

In the evening, while at tea, considerable attention was attracted by a slender man, with a downcast look, in conversation with the governor. - It afterwards ap¬ peared, that this was a stranger, from Maui, who wished to be thought a prophet, affirming that he was inspired by a shark, that enabled him to tell future events. The governor said, many of the people believed in him, and from them he obtained a living.

The excavations of the well proceeded but slowly during the next day. Hard and closely imbedded lava rendered the work difficult. But as the governor pro¬ mises assistance, they are encouraged to proceed.

The next day being the Sabbath, Mr. Bishop preach¬ ed twice at the governor’s house, Thomas Hopu acting as interpreter. The congregation consisted principally of Kuakini’s attendants and domestics, the greater part of the population conceiving themselves under no obli-

THROUGH HAWAII.

51

gation to hear preaching, as they do not know how to read ; pretending, that ignorance exempts them from all obligation to attend religious exercises.

Leaving Kairua early, in a canoe with four men, provided by the governor, Messrs. Thurston and Good¬ rich reached Kaavaroa about nine o’clock in the morn¬ ing. Kamakau was waiting for them, and seemed to rejoice at their arrival. He led them to his house, and provided them with a frugal breakfast, after which they repaired in company to the ranai for public worship. On reaching it, they found about one hundred of the people already there. Before the service commenced, the chief arose, directed them to remain quiet, and pay the greatest attention to the word of life, which they were about to hear.

Shortly after the conclusion of the service, the mis¬ sionaries passed over Kearake’kua bay, in a canoe, landed on the opposite side, and walked along the shore about a mile, to Karama. Here, in a large house, they collected about three hundred people ; to whom Mr. Thurston preached, and was pleased with the interest they manifested. Some who stood near the speaker, repeated the whole discourse, sentence by sentence, in a voice too low to create disturbance, yet loud enough to be distinctly heard. There were seven or eight American and English seamen present, who re¬ quested that they might be addressed in their own language. Mr. Goodrich accordingly preached to them from Rev. iii. 20.

Returning from Karama to the southern side of Kearake’kua bay, where they had left their canoe, they passed the ruins of an old heiau, the moral men¬ tioned in Captain Cook’s voyage, where the obser-

52

MISSIONARY TOUR

vatory was erected. The remaining walls were one hundred feet long and fifteen high, and the space within was strewed with animal and human bones, the relics of the sacrifices once offered there ; a scene truly af¬ fecting to a Christian mind.

Leaving this melancholy spot, they returned in their canoe to Kaavaroa : and when the people had assem bled in the ranai, Mr. Thurston preached to them from Psalm cxviii. 24. This is the day the Lord hath made : ive will rejoice and he glad in it.

About sun-set, Mr. Goodrich ascended a neigh¬ bouring height, and visited the spot where the body of the unfortunate Captain Cook was cut to pieces, and the flesh, after being separated from the bones, was burnt. It is a small enclosure, about fifteen feet square, surrounded by a wall five feet high ; within is a kind of hearth, raised about eighteen inches from the ground, and encircled by a curb of rude stones. Here the fire was kindled on the above occasion ; and the place is still strewed with charcoal. The natives mention the interment of another foreigner on this spot; but could not tell to what country he belonged, or the name of the vessel in which he was brought.

Kamakau and his people had interested his visitors so much, that they determined to spend the night at his house. After supper, the members of the family, with the domestics and one or two strangers, met for evening worship : a hymn was sung in the native language, and Kamakau himself engaged in prayer with great fervour and propriety. He prayed particularly for the king, chiefs, and people, of Hawaii, and the neigh¬ bouring islands ; and for the missionaries, who had brought the good word of salvation to them. The

THROUGH HAWAII.

53

brethren were surprised to hear him use so much evan¬ gelical language in prayer. During the conversation of the evening, he expressed a desire, which has since been gratified, that a missionary might reside in his neighbourhood, that he and his people might be in¬ structed in the word of God ; might learn to read and write, and become acquainted with what the missio¬ naries were teaching at the stations where they dwelt. He is about fifty years of age, and regretted exceed¬ ingly, as many others have also done, that he was so far advanced in life before the missionaries arrived at the islands. The Sabbath passed away pleasantly, and, it is to be hoped, profitably, both to the interesting inhabitants of the place, and their guests ; and the lat¬ ter retired to rest, animated and encouraged by what they had that day witnessed. Early next morning they set out for Kairua, where they arrived about nine o’clock in the forenoon.

Unable to proceed with the well for want of proper instruments with which to drill the rocks, the greater part of this day was spent in ascertaining the popula¬ tion of Kairua. Numbering the houses for one mile along the coast, they found them to be 52.9 ; and al¬ lowing an average of five persons to each house, the inhabitants in Kairua will amount to 2645 persons. This certainly does not exceed the actual population, as few of the houses are small, and many of them large, containing two or three families each.

The varied and strongly marked volcanic surface of the higher parts of the mountain called Mouna Hua - rarai, in the immediate neighbourhood of Kairua ; the traditional accounts given by the natives of the erup¬ tions, which, from craters on its summit, had in differ-

54

MISSIONARY TOUR

ent ages deluged the low land along the coast ; the thick woods that skirt its base, and the numerous fea¬ thered tribes inhabiting them, rendered it an interesting object, and induced the travellers to commence its as¬ cent. About eight o’clock in the morning of the 9th, they left Kairua, accompanied by three men, whom they had engaged to conduct them to the summit. Having travelled about twelve miles in a northerly direction, they arrived at the last house on the western side of the mountain. Here their guides wished to re¬ main for the night ; and on being urged to proceed, as it was not more than three o’clock in the afternoon, declared they did not know the way, and had never been beyond the spot where they then were. Notwith¬ standing this disappointment, it was determined to proceed. Leaving the path, the party began to ascend in a s. E. direction, and travelled about six miles, over a rough and difficult road, sometimes across streams of hard lava, full of fissures and chasms, at other times through thick brushwood, or high ferns, so closely in¬ terwoven as almost to arrest their’ progress.

Arriving at a convenient place, and finding them¬ selves fatigued, drenched also with the frequent show¬ ers, and the wet grass through which they had walked, they proposed to pitch their tent for the night. A tem¬ porary hut was erected with branches of the neighbour¬ ing trees, and covered with the leaves of the tall ferns that grew around them. At one end of it they lighted a large fire, and, after the rains had abated, dried their clothes, partook of the refreshments they had brought with them, and, having commended themselves to the kind protection of their heavenly Guardian, spread fern leaves and grass upon the lava, and lay down to re-

THROUGH HAWAII

55

pose. The thermometer, which is usually about 84° on the shore, stood at 60° in the hut where they slept.

The singing of the birds in the surrounding woods ushering in the early dawn, and the cool temperature of the pure mountain air, excited a variety of pleasing sen¬ sations in the minds of all the party, when they awoke in the morning, after a comfortable night’s rest. The ther¬ mometer, when placed outside of the hut, stood at 46°. Having united in their morning sacrifice of thanksgiving to God, and taken a light breakfast, they resumed their laborious journey. The road, lying through thick under¬ wood and fern, was wet and fatiguing for about two miles, when they arrived at an ancient stream of lava, about twenty rods wide, running in a direction nearly west. Ascending the hardened surface of this stream of lava, over deep chasms, or large volcanic stones im¬ bedded in it, for a distance of three or four miles, they reached the top of one of the ridges on the western side of the mountain.

As they travelled along, they met with tufts of straw¬ berries, and clusters of raspberry bushes, loaded with fruit, which, as they were both hungry and thirsty, were very acceptable. The strawberries had rather an insipid taste ; the raspberries were white and large, frequently an inch in diameter, but not so sweet or well-flavoured as those cultivated in Europe and America.

Between nine and ten in the forenoon they arrived at a large extinguished crater, about a mile in circum¬ ference, and apparently 400 feet deep, probably the same that was visited by some of V ancouver’s people, in 1792. The sides sloped regularly, and at the bot¬ tom was a small mound, with an aperture in its centre. By the side of this large crater, divided from it by a

56

MISSIONARY TOUR

narrow ridge of volcanic rocks, was another, fifty-six feet in circumference, from which volumes of sulphure¬ ous smoke and vapour continually ascended. No bottom could be seen ; and on throwing stones into it, they were heard to strike against its sides for eight seconds, but not to reach the bottom. There were two other aper¬ tures near this, nine feet in diameter, and apparently about 200 feet deep. As the party walked along the giddy verge of the large crater, they could distinguish the course of two principal streams, that had issued from it in the great eruption, about the year 1800. One had taken a direction nearly north-east; the other had flowed to the north-west, in broad irresistible torrents, for a distance of twelve or fifteen miles to the sea, where, driving back the waters, it had extended the bounda¬ ries of the island. They attempted to descend this crater, but the steepness of its sides prevented their examining it so fully as they desired.

After spending some time there, they walked along the ridge between three and four miles, and examined sixteen different craters, similar in construction to the first they had met with, though generally of smaller di¬ mensions. The whole ridge, along which they walked, appeared little else than a continued line of craters, which, in different ages, had deluged the valleys below with floods of lava, or showers of burning cinders. Some of these craters appeared to have reposed for ages, as trees of considerable size were growing on their sides, and many of them were covered with earth, and clothed with verdure. In the vicinity of the craters they found a number of small bushes, bearing red ber¬ ries in crowded clusters, which, in size and shape, much resembled whortleberries ; though insipid, they

THROUGH HAWAII.

57

were juicy, and supplied the place of fresh water, a comfort they had been destitute of since the preceding evening.

They continued ascending till three p. m. when, having suffered much from thirst, and finding they should not be able to reach the highest peak before dark, the sky also being overcast, and the rain beginning to fall, they judged it best to return to Kairua, without having reached the summit of Mouna Huararai ; particularly as they were somewhat scattered, and found difficulty in pursuing the most direct way, on account of the thick fog which surrounded the mountain.

On their return they found the aid of their pocket compass necessary to enable them to regain the path by which they had ascended in the morning. After travelling some time, they beheld with gladness the sun breaking through the fog in which they had been so long enveloped, and, looking over the clouds that rolled at their feet, saw him gradually sink behind the western wave of the wide extended ocean. The ap¬ pearance of the sky, at the setting of the sun, in a tropical climate, is usually beautiful and splendid ; it was so this evening ; and from their great elevation, the party viewed with delight the magnificent yet transient glories of the closing day. They travelled about three miles further, when, being wet with the fog, and weary with travelling, they erected a hut on the lava, and encamped for the night. They succeeded in making a good fire, dried their clothes, and then sat down to partake of the little refeshment that was left. It consisted of a small quantity of hard taro paste, called by the natives ai paa. A little water would have been agreeable, but of this they were destitute. Having

i

58

MISSIONARY TOUR

gathered some fern leaves, they strewed them on the lava, and laid down to repose.

On the morning of the 11th, the party still felt un¬ willing to return without reaching the top of the moun¬ tain, and hesitated before they began again to descend ; but having been a day and two nights without water, and seeing no prospect of procuring any there, they were obliged to direct their steps towards Kairua.

They walked several miles along the rough stream of lava by which they had ascended, till they arrived at the woody part of the mountain. Two of them, in searching for a more direct road to Kairua, discovered an excellent spring of water. They soon communi¬ cated the agreeable intelligence to their companions, who hastened to the spot, and, with copious draughts, quenched their thirst. Having filled their canteens, they, with renewed strength and grateful hearts, kept on their way to the town.

Owing to the roughness of the paths, and the circui¬ tous route by which they travelled, they did not arrive at Kairua until after sun-set, much fatigued, and almost barefoot, their shoes having been destroyed by the sharp projections in the lava.

They refreshed themselves at the governor’s, and after uniting with him and his family in an evening tribute of praise to God, they repaired to their lodg- .ings, somewhat disappointed, yet well repaid for the toil of their journey.

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59

CHAP. Ill

Departure from Oahu — Occurrence off Ranai — Appearance of Lahaina — Keopuolani, Queen of the Islands — Native Dance — Missionary Labours — Buhenehene , a popular na¬ tive game — Traditions respecting some of the principal Idols of Maui and the adjacent Islands — Voyage to Ha¬ waii — Visit to an aged English resident — Description of a Heiau — Native Dance at Kairua.

Eight days after the departure of Mr. Thurston and his companions, I followed in a small schooner belong¬ ing to Keopuolani, bound first to Lahaina, and then to Hawaii for sandal wood. Kalakua, one of the queens of the late Tamehameha, and Kekauruohe her daugh¬ ter, were proceeding in the same vessel to join the king and other chiefs at Maui. The trade wind blew fresh from the north-east, and the sea was unusually rough in the channel between Oahu and Morokai. The schooner appeared to be a good sea-boat, but proved a very uncomfortable one ; the deck, from stem to stern, being continually overflowed, all who could not get below were constantly drenched with the spray. The cabin was low, and so filled with the chief women and their companions, that, where space could be found sufficient to stand or sit, it was hardly possible to en¬ dure the heat. The evening, however, was fine, and the night free from rain.

At daylight next morning, being close in with the west point of Morokai, we tacked, and stood to the

00

MISSIONARY TOUR

southward till noon, when we again steered to the northw ard, and at four o’clock in the afternoon were •within half a mile of the high bluff rocks which form the southern point of Ranai. A light air then came off the land, and carried us slowly along the shore, till about an hour before sun-sent, when Kekauruohe said she wished for some fish, and requested the master to stop the vessel while she went to procure them among the adjacent rocks. Her wishes were gratified, and the boat was hoisted out. Kekauruohe and three of her female attendants proceeded towards the rocks that lie along the base of the precipice, about half a mile dis¬ tant. The detention thus occasioned afforded time to observe more particularly the neighbouring coast. The face of the high and perpendicular rocks in this part of the island indicate that Ranai is either of volcanic origin, or, at some remote period, has undergone the action of fire. Different strata of lava, of varied colour and thickness, are distinctly marked from the water’s edge to the highest point. These strata, lying almost horizontally, are in some places from twelve to twenty feet thick, in others not more than a foot or eighteen inches.

After fishing about an hour, Kekauruohe and her companions returned with a quantity of limpets, peri¬ winkles, &c. of which they made a hearty supper. The wind died away with the setting of the sun, until about 9 p. m. when a light breeze came from the land, and wafted us slowly on our passage.

The southern shore of Ranai is usually avoided by masters of vessels acquainted with the navigation among the islands, on account of the light and vari¬ able winds or calms generally experienced there ; the

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61

course of the trade-winds being intercepted by the high lands of Maui and Ranai.

It is not unusual for vessels, passing that way, to be becalmed there for six, eight, or even ten days. The natives, with the small craft belonging to the islands, usually keep close in shore, avail themselves of the gentle land-breeze to pass the point in the evening, and run into Lahaina with the sea-breeze in the morning ; but this is attended with danger, as there is usually a heavy swell rolling in towards the land. One or two vessels have escaped being drifted on the rocks, only by the prompt assistance of their boats.

At day -break, on the 4th, we found ourselves within about four miles of Lahaina, which is the principal dis¬ trict in Maui, on account of its being the general resi¬ dence of the chiefs, and the common resort of ships that touch at the island for refreshments. A dead calm pre¬ vailed, but by means of two large sweeps or oars, each worked by four men, we reached the roads, and an¬ chored at 6 A. m.

The appearance of Lahaina from the anchorage is singularly romantic and beautiful. A fine sandy beach stretches along the margin of the sea, lined for a consi¬ derable distance with houses, and adorned with shady clumps of kou trees, or waving groves of cocoa-nuts. The former is a species of cordia ; the cordia sebas - tina in Cook’s voyages. The level land of the whole district, for about three miles, is one continued garden, laid out in beds of taro, potatoes, yams, sugar-cane, or cloth plants. The lowly cottage of the farmer is seen peeping through the leaves of the luxuriant plantain and banana tree, and in every direction white columns of smoke ascend, curling up among the wide-spreading

62

MISSIONARY TOUR

branches of the bread-fruit tree. The sloping hills im¬ mediately behind, and the lofty mountains in the inte¬ rior, clothed with verdure to their very summits, inter¬ sected by deep and dark ravines, frequently enlivened by glittering waterfalls, or divided by winding valleys, terminate the delightful prospect.

Shortly after coming to anchor, a boat came from the barge, for the chiefs on board, and I accompanied them to the shore.

On landing, I was kindly greeted by Keoua, go¬ vernor of the place ; and shortly afterwards met and welcomed by Mr. Stewart, who was just returning from morning worship with Keopuolani and her hus¬ band.

We waited on Rihoriho, the late king, in his tent. He was, as usual, neatly and respectably dressed, having on a suit of superfine blue, made after the Eu¬ ropean fashion. We were courteously received, and after spending a few minutes in conversation respect¬ ing my journey to Hawaii, and answering his inquiries: relative to Oahu, we walked together about half a mile, through groves of plantain and sugar cane, over a well-cultivated tract of land, to Mr. Butler’s establish-- ment, in one of whose houses the missionaries were comfortably accommodated, until their own could be erected, and where I was kindly received by all the members of the mission family.

After breakfast Ī walked down to the beach, and there learned that the king had sailed for Morokai, and that Kalakua intended to follow in the schooner in which she had come from Oahu. This obliged me to wait for the Ainoa, another native vessel, hourly ex¬ pected at Lahaina, on her way to Hawaii. The fore-

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63

noon was spent in conversation with Keopuolani, queen of Mauhi, and mother of Rihoriho, king of all the islands. She, as well as the other chiefs present, appeared gratified with an account of the attention given to the means of instruction at Oahu, and desirous that the people of Lahaina might enjoy all the advan¬ tages of Christian education. Taua, the native teacher from Huahine, appeared diligently employed among Keopuolani’s people, many of whom were his scholars ; and I was happy to learn from Messrs. Stewart and Richards, that he was vigilant and faithful in his work.

At sun-rise next morning, Mr. Stewart and I walk¬ ed down to Keopuolani’s, to attend the usual morn¬ ing exercises, in the large house near the sea. About fifty persons were present. In the afternoon I accom¬ panied the missionaries to their schools on the beach. The proficiency of many of the pupils in reading, spelling, and writing on slates, was pleasing.

Just as they had finished their afternoon instruction, a party of musicians and dancers arrived before the house of Keopuolani, and commenced a hura ha raau, (dance to the beating of a stick.) Five musicians ad¬ vanced first, each with a staff in his left hand, five or six feet long, about three or four inches in diameter at one end, and tapering off to a point at the other. In his right hand he held a small stick of hard wood, six or nine inches long, with which he commenced his music, by striking the small stick on the larger one, beating time all the while with his right foot on a stone, placed on the ground beside him for that purpose. Six women, fantastically dressed in yellow tapas, crown¬ ed with garlands of flowers, having also wreaths of the

64

MISSIONARY TOUR

sweet-scented flowers of the gardenia on their necks, and branches of the fragrant mairi, (another native plant,) bound round their ancles, now made their way by couples through the crowd, and, arriving at the area, on one side of which the musicians stood, began their dance. Their movements were slow, and though not always graceful, exhibited nothing offensive to modest propriety. Both musicians and dancers alter¬ nately chanted songs in honour of former gods and chiefs of the islands, apparently much to the gratifi¬ cation of the numerous spectators. After they had continued their Tiara , (song and dance,) for about half an hour, the queen, Keopuolani, requested them to leave off, as the time had arrived for evening worship. The music ceased ; the dancers sat down ; and, after the missionaries and some of the people had sung one of the songs of Zion, I preached to the surrounding multitude with special reference to their former idola¬ trous dances, and the vicious customs connected there¬ with, * from Acts xvii. 30. “ The times of this igno¬ rance God winked at, but now commandeth all men every where to repent.” The audience was attentive ; and when the service was finished, the people dispers¬ ed, and the dancers returned to their houses.

On our way home, the voice of lamentation arrested our attention. Listening a few moments, we found it proceeded from a lowly cottage, nearly concealed by close rows of sugar-cane. When we reached the spot, we beheld a middle-aged woman, and two elderly men, weeping around the mat of a sick man, apparently near his end. Finding him entirely ignorant of God, and of a future state, we spoke to him of Jehovah, of the fallen condition of man, of the amazing love of

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65

Christ in suffering death for the redemption of the world, and recommended him to pray to the Son of God, who was able to save to the uttermost. He said that until now he knew nothing of these things, and was glad he had lived to hear of them. We requested one of his friends to come to our house for some medi¬ cine ; and having endeavoured to comfort the mourners, bade them farewell.

The Ainoa was seen approaching from the southward, on the morning of the 6th. About two p. m. she came to anchor, having been becalmed off Ranai four days.

This day being the Sabbath, at half-past ten the mis¬ sion family walked down to the beach to public wor¬ ship. Most of the chiefs, and about three hundred people, assembled under the pleasant shade of a beau¬ tiful clump of kou trees, in front of Keopuolani’s house. After singing and prayer, I preached from Luke x. 23, 24. “ Blessed are the eyes which see the things which ye see : for I tell you, that many prophets and kings have desired to see those things which ye see, and have not seen them ; and to hear those things which ye hear, and have not heard them.” After service, when we went to present our salutations to Keopuolani, we found her, Kaikioeva, and several chiefs, conversing about Tamehameha, and others of their ancestors, who had died idolaters, and expressing their regret that the gospel had not been brought to the Sandwich Islands in their day. “ But perhaps,” said Keopuolani, “ they will have less punishment in the other world for wor¬ shipping idols, than those, who, though they do not wor¬ ship wooden gods, yet see these days, and hear these good things, and still disregard them.” As we returned, I visited the sick man ; found him rather better than K

60

MISSIONARY TOUR

on the preceding evening, and again recommended the Son of God as all-sufficient to save. I afterwards saw a party at buhenehene. This is one of the most popu¬ lar games in the Sandwich Islands, and the favourite amusement of the king, and higher order of chiefs, fre¬ quently occupying them whole days together. It prin¬ cipally consists in hiding a small stone under one of five pieces of native tapa, so as to prevent the specta¬ tors from discovering under which piece it is hid. The parties at play sit cross-legged, on mats spread on the ground, each one holding in his right hand a small elastic rod, about three feet long, and highly polished. At the small end of this stick there is a narrow slit or hole, through which a piece of dog’s skin, with a tuft of shaggy hair on it, or a piece of ti leaf, is usually drawn. Five pieces of tapa, of different colours, each loosely folded up like a bundle, are then placed be¬ tween the tw'o parties, which generally consists of five persons each. One person is then selected on each side to hide the stone. He who is first to hide it, takes it in his right hand, lifts up the cloth at one end, puts his arm under as far as his elbow, and, passing it along several times, underneath the five pieces of cloth, which lie in a line contiguous to each other, he finally leaves it under one of them. The other party sit opposite, watching closely the action in the muscles of the upper part of his arm ; and, it is said, that adepts can dis¬ cover the place where the stone is deposited, by ob¬ serving the change that takes place in those muscles, when the hand ceases to grasp it. Having deposited the stone, the hider withdraws his arm ; and, with many ges¬ tures, separates the contiguous pieces of cloth into five distinct heaps, leaving a narrow space between each.

THROUGH HAWAII.

67

The opposite party, having keenly observed this pro¬ cess, now point with their wands or sticks to the dif¬ ferent heaps under which they suppose the stone lies, looking significantly, at the same time, full in the face of the man who had hid it. He sits all the while, hold¬ ing his fingers before his eyes, to prevent their noticing any change in his countenance, should one of them point to the heap under which it is hid. Having pre¬ viously agreed who shall strike first, that individual, looking earnestly at the hider, lifts his rod, and strikes a smart blow across the heap he had selected. The cloth is instantly lifted up ; and should the stone ap¬ pear under it, his party have won that hiding, with one stroke ; if it is not there, the others strike, till the stone is found. The same party hide the stone five or ten times successively, according to their agreement at the commencement of the play ; and whichever party disco vers it the given number of times, with fewest strokes, wins the game. Sometimes they reverse it ; and those win, who, in a given number of times, strike most heaps without uncovering the stone. Occasionally they play for amusement only; but more frequently for money, or other articles of value, which they stake on the game.

I went to the party, whom I found thus engaged ; and after a few minutes’ conversation, told them, that it was the sacred day of God, and induced them to put asifie their play, and promise to attend public worship in the afternoon. Leaving them, I passed through a garden, where a man was at work weeding and water¬ ing a bed of cloth plants. I asked him if he did not know it was the sacred day, and improper for him to work? The man answered, yes, he knew it was the

68

MISSIONARY TOUR

la tabu , (sacred day,) and that Karaimoku had given orders for the people of Lahaina not to work on that day; but said, he was liana maru no , (just working secretly ;) that was some distance from the beach, and the chiefs would not see him. I then told him he might do it without the chiefs seeing him, but it was prohi¬ bited by a higher power than the chiefs, even by the God of heaven and earth, who could see him alike in every place, by night and by day. « He said he did not know that before, and would leave off when he had finished the row of cloth plants he was then weeding !

Mr. Stewart conducted an English service in the af¬ ternoon. The sound of the hura in a remote part of the district was occasionally heard through the after-part of the day, but whether countenanced by any of the chiefs, or only exhibited for the amusement of the com¬ mon people, we did not learn.

At four o’clock we again walked down to the beach, and found about two hundred people collected under the kou trees ; many more afterwards came, and after the introductory exercises, I preached to them upon the doctrine of the resurrection and a future state, from J ohn xi. 25. The congregation seemed much interested. Probably it was the first time many had ever heard of the awful hour, when the trumpet shall sound, and the dead shall be raised, and stand before God. At the conclusion of the service, notice was given of the monthly missionary prayer-meeting on the morrow evening, and the people were invited to attend.

Taua, the native teacher of Keopuolani, visited the family in the evening, and gave a very pleasing account of Kcopuolani’s frequent conversations with him, on the love of God in sending his Son, on the death of

THROUGH HAWAII.

69

Christ, and on her great desire to have a new heart, and become a true follower of the Redeemer. He in¬ formed us, that after most of the attendants had re¬ tired, she had several times sent for him, at nine or ten o’clock in the evening, to engage in prayer with her and her husband, before they retired to rest. This account was truly gratifying, and tended much to strengthen the pleasing hope, which, from her uniform, humble, and Christian conduct, had for some time been in¬ dulged, that a saving change had taken place in her heart.

In the afternoon of the 7th I walked to the sea side with Mr. Richards, and waited on the queen Keopuo- lani, to converse with her respecting the houses and fences which she had kindly engaged to erect for the missionaries. The interview was satisfactory. Keo- puolani seemed anxious to make them comfortable, and assured Mr. Richards that the houses would soon be ready for them. We then visited Mauro, the chief of Waiakea, a large district on the eastern side of Ha¬ waii. He had been on a short visit to the king, at Oahu, and was returning to his land in the Ainoa. He received us kindly, and, when informed that I wished to proceed in the vessel to Hawaii, said, “ It is good that you should go; we shall sail to-morrow.” The eastern part of Lahaina, in which he had his encamp¬ ment, was highly cultivated, and adorned with some beautiful groves of kou trees and cocoa nuts. There were also several large ponds, well stocked with excel¬ lent fish.

On returning from our visit to Maaro, we found the people collecting under the cool shade of their favourite trees, in front of Keopuolani’s house, for the purpose

70

MISSIONARY TOUR

of attending the monthly missionary prayer meeting. About five o’clock the service commenced. I gave an address from the Saviour’s commission to the first missionaries to the heathen. Matt, xxviii. 19. “Go ye, therefore, and teach all nations.” The audience appeared gratified with the brief account given of the missionary operations of the present day, especially those among the various clustering islands of the Pa¬ cific, with whose inhabitants they feel themselves more particularly identified, than with the native tribes of Africa or Asia. It was a circumstance truly animat- ^ ing to see so many of those who, wrapt in the thick darkness of paganism, had till lately worshipped the work of their own hands, and “ sacrificed” their fellow- creatures “to devils,” now joining in concert with Christians of every nation, in praying for the spread of the gospel of Jesus throughout the world.

After breakfast on the 8th, I visited a neat strong- brick house, which stands on the beach, about the middle of the district. It was erected for Tarneh ame¬ lia ; appears well built, is forty feet by twenty, has two stories, and is divided into four rooms by strong boarded partitions. It was the occasional residence of the late king, but by the present is used only as a warehouse. Several persons who appeared to have the charge of it, were living in one of the apartments, and having looked over the house, and made some inquiries about the native timber employed for the floor, beams, &c. I sat down on one of the bales of cloth lying in the room where the natives were sitting, and asked them if they knew how to read, or if any of them at¬ tended the school, and the religious services on the Sabbath? On their answering in the negative, I ad-

THROUGH HAWAII.

71

vised them not to neglect these advantages, assuring them that it was a good thing to be instructed, and to know the true God, and his son Jesus Christ, the only Saviour. They said, “Perhaps it is a good thing for some to attend to the palapala and the pule (to reading and prayers,) but we are the king’s servants, and must attend to his concerns. If we (meaning all those that had the care of the king’s lands) were to spend our time at our books, there would be nobody to cultivate the ground, to provide food, or cut sandal wood for the king.” I asked them what proportion of their time was taken up in attending to these things ? They said they worked in the plantations three or four days in a week, sometimes from daylight till nine or ten o’clock in the forenoon ; that preparing an oven of food took an hour ; and that when they went for sandal wood, which was not very often, they were gone three or four days, and sometimes as many weeks. They were the king’s servants, and generally work much less than the people who occupy the lands, or cultivate them. I asked them what they did in the remaining part of those days in which they worked at their plantations in the morning ; and also on those days when they did not work at all? They said they ate poe, laid down to sleep, or komailio no (just talked for amusement.) They were then asked, which they thought would be most advantageous to them, to spend that time in learn¬ ing to read, and seeking the favour of Jehovah and Jesus Christ, that they might live for ever, or wasting it in eating, sleeping, or foolish talking, and remaining ignorant in this world, and liable to wretchedness in that which was to come? They immediately endea¬ voured to give a different turn to the conversation, by

72

MISSIONARY TOUR

saying, “ What a fine country yours must be, compared with this ! What large bales of cloth come from thence, while the clothing of Hawaii is small in quantity, and very bad. The soil there must be very prolific, and property easily obtained, or so much of it would not have been brought here. I informed them, that the dif¬ ference was not so great between the countries as be¬ tween the people. That, many ages back, the ances¬ tors of the present inhabitants of England and America possessed fewer comforts than the Sandwich islanders now enjoy; wore skins of beasts for clothing; painted their bodies with various colours ; and worshipped with inhuman rites their cruel gods : but since they had be¬ come enlightened and industrious, and had embraced Christianity, they had been wise and rich ; and many, there vras reason to hope, had, after death, gone to a state of happiness in another world ; that they owed all their present wealth and enjoyment to their intelligence and industry ; and that, if the people of either country were to neglect education and. religion, and spend as much of their time in eating, sleeping, and jesting, they wrould soon become as poor and as ignorant as the Sandwich islanders. They said, perhaps it was so ; perhaps industry and instruction would make them happier aud better, and, if the chiefs wished it. bwand by they would attend to both. After again eiJpKIIng them to improve the means now placed withiirtheir reach by the residence of the missionaries among them, L took leave of them. During the forenoon, I went into several other houses, and conversed with the people on subjects relating to the mission, recommending their attention to the advantages it was designed to confer. Some approved, but many seemed very well

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satisfied with their present state of ignorance and irreligion, and rather unwilling to be disturbed.

After having united with the family in their evening devotions, on the 9th I took my leave, grateful for the hospitable entertainment and kind attention I had experienced, during my unexpected stay at their inte¬ resting station. I regretted that the illness of Mr. Stewart, which had been increasing for several days, prevented his accompanying me on my projected tour. At nine o’clock I walked down to the beach, but wait¬ ed till midnight before an opportunity offered for get¬ ting on board. On reaching the brig, I learned that they did not intend to sail till daylight. There were such multitudes of natives on board, and every place was so crowded, that it was impossible to pass from the gangway to the companion without treading on them ; and it was difficult any where, either below or upon deck, to find room sufficient to lie down.

Early in the morning of the 10th the vessel was under way, but the light winds, and stong westerly current, soon rendered it necessary to anchor. Between eight and nine I went on shore, and after breakfasting with the Mission family, returned to the beach, that I might be ready to embark whenever the wind should become favourable. I sat down in Keopuolani’s house, and entoed into an interesting conversation with her, Hoa- pri, and several other chiefs, respecting their ancient traditions and mythology.

One of the ancient gods ot Maui, prior to its subju¬ gation by Tamehameha, they said, was Keoroeva. The body of the image was of wood, and was arrayed in garments of native tapa. The head and neck were formed of a kind of fine basket or wicker work, covered

L

74

MISSIONARY TOUR

over with red feathers, so curiously wrought in as to resemble the skin of a beautiful bird. A native helmet was placed on the idol’s head, from the crown of which long tresses of human hair hung down over its shoul¬ ders. Its mouth, like the greater number of the Ha¬ waiian idols, was large and distended.

In all the temples dedicated to its worship, the image was placed within the inner apartment, on the left hand side of the door, and immediately before it stood the altar, on which the offerings of every kind were usually placed. They did not say whether human victims were ever sacrificed to appease its imagined wrath, but large offerings, of every thing valuable, were frequent. Sometimes hogs were taken alive, as presents. The large ones were led, and the smaller ones carried in the arms of the priest, into the presence of the idols. The priest then pinched the ears or the tail of the pig till it made a squeaking noise, when he addressed the god, saying, “ Here is the offering of such a one of your kahu,” (devotees.) A hole was then made in the pig’s ear, a piece of cinet, made of the fibres of the cocoa-nut husk, was fastened in it, and the pig was set at liberty until the priest had occasion for him. In consequence of this mark, which distinguished the sacred hog, he was allowed to range the district at pleasure ; and whatever depredations he might commit, driving him away from the enclosures into which he had broken, was the only punishment allowed to be inflicted.

Keoroeva’s hogs were not the only ones thus privi¬ leged. The same lenient conduct was observed to¬ wards all the sacred pigs, to whatever idol they had been offered

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Tiha, a female idol, they said was also held in great veneration by the people of Maui, and received nearly the same homage and offerings as Keoroeva.

The people of Ranai, an adjacent island, had a num^ ber of idols, but those best known by the chiefs with whom I was conversing, were Raeapua and Kaneapua, two large carved stone images, representing the deities supposed to preside over the sea, and worshipped chiefly by fishermen.

Mooarii, (king of lizards or alligators,) a shark, was also a celebrated marine god, worshipped by the inha¬ bitants of Morokai, another island in the neighbour¬ hood. The chiefs informed me, that on almost every point of land projecting any distance into the sea, a temple was formerly erected for his worship. Several kinds of fish arrive in shoals on their coast, every year, in their respective seasons. The first fish of each kind, taken by the fishermen, were always carried to the heiau, and offered to their god, whose influence they imagined had driven them to their shores. In some remote period, perhaps, they had observed the sharks chasing or devouring these fish, as they passed along among their islands, and from this circumstance had been led to deify the monster, supposing themselves indebted to him for the bountiful supplies thus furnished by a gracious Providence.

They had a number of sea gods, besides those whom they imagined directed the shoals of fishes to their shores. They had also gods who controlled the winds and changed the weather. During a storm, or other season of danger at sea, they offered up their paro, or pule Jcurana , a particular kind of prayer ; but it is not known to what idol they addressed it. On these occa-

76

MISSIONARY TOUR

sions, their dread of perishing at sea frequently led them to make vows to some favourite deity ; and if they ever reached the land, it was their first business to repair to the temple, and fulfil their vows. These vows were generally considered most sacred engage¬ ments ; and it was expected that, sooner or later, some judgment would overtake those who failed to perform them. It is not improbable, that the priests of those idols, in order to maintain their influence over the peo¬ ple, either poisoned the delinquents, or caused them to sustain some other injury.

Karaipahoa was also a famous idol, originally be¬ longing to Morokai. It was a middling-sized wooden image, curiously carved ; the arms were extended, the fingers spread out, the head was ornamented with human hair, and the widely distended mouth was arm¬ ed with rows of shark’s teeth.

The wood of which the image was made was so poisonous, that if a small piece of it was chipped into a dish of poe, or steeped in water, whoever ate the poe, or drank the water, the natives reported, would certainly die in less than twenty-four hours after¬ wards. We were never able to procure a sight of this image, though we have been repeatedly informed that it still exists, not indeed in one compact image, as it was divided in several parts on the death of Tamehameha, and distributed among the principal chiefs.

It is a known fact, that the natives use several kinds of vegetable poison ; and probably the wood of which the idol was made is poisonous. But the report of the virulence of the poison is most likely one of the many stratagems so frequently employed by the chiefs and

THROUGH HAWAII.

7?

priests, to maintain their influence over the minds of the people.

A smaller image of the same god was formed of nioi, a hard yellow wood, of which idols were usually made This was left at Morokai, the original being always carried about by Tamehameha, and, it is said, placed under his pillow whenever he slept.

The following is the tradition given by the natives of the original idol.

In the reign of Kumaraua , an ancient king of Mo¬ rokai, lived Kaneakama , a great gambler. Playing one day at maita, (a Hawaiian game,) he lost all that he possessed, except one pig, which, having dedicated to his god, he durst not stake on his game. In the even¬ ing he returned home, laid down on his mat, and fell asleep. His god appeared to him in a dream, and di¬ rected him to go and play again, on the following day, and stake this pig on his success in a particular part of the play. He awoke in the morning, did as the god had directed, and was remarkably successful through the day. Before he returned home in the evening, he went to the temple of his idol, and there dedicated the greater part of his gain.

During his sleep that night the god appeared to him again, and requested him to go to the king, and tell him, that a clump of trees would be seen growing in a certain place in the morning; and that if he would have a god made out of one of them, he would reside in the image, and impart to it his power, signifying also, that Kaneakama should be his priest. •

Early the next morning, the man who had received the communication from his god went and delivered it to the king, by whom he was directed to take a number

78

MISSIONARY TOUR

of men, and cut down one of the trees, and carve it into an image. As they approached Kccrualcoi, a small valley on the side of one of the mountains in Morokai, they were surprised at beholding a clump of trees, where there had been none before, the gods having caused them to grow up in the course of the preceding night. Into these trees, Tane, and some other gods, are reported to hav^ entered. When they arrived at the spot, the gods, by some sign, directed Kaneakama which tree to cut down. They began to work with their short-handled stone hatchets ; but the chips flying on the bodies of one or two of them, they instantly expired. Terrified at the dreadful power of the wood, the others threw down their hatchets, and refused to fell the tree ; being urged by Kaneakama, they resumed their work ; not, however, till they cover¬ ed their bodies and faces with native cloth, and the leaves of the ti plant, leaving only a small aperture opposite one of their eyes. Instead of their hatchets, they took their long daggers, or pahoas, with which they cut down the tree, and carved out the image. From this circumstance, the natives say, the idol de¬ rived its name, Karai-pdhoa, which is literally, dagger cut or carved; from karai , to chip with an adze, or carve, and pahoa , a dagger.

Excepting the deities supposed to preside over vol¬ canoes, no god was so much dreaded by the people as Karaipahoa. All who were thought to have died by poison, were said to have been slain by him.

Before I left the party, I could not help stating to them the striking identity between some of their tradi¬ tions and those of the Tahitians ; and expressed my conviction that both nations had the same origin. They

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79

said, tradition informed them that their progenitors were brought into existence on the islands which they now inhabit ; that they knew nothing of the origin of the people of the Georgian and Society Islands, yet Tahiti, the name of the largest of the Georgian Islands, was found in many of their ancient songs, though not now applied exclusively to that island. With the peo¬ ple of Borabora, (the name they gave to the Society Islands,) they said they had no acquaintance before they were visited by Captain Cook, but that since that time, by means of ships passing from one group of islands to the other, several presents and messages of friendship had been interchanged between Tameha- meha and Pomare I., and that, in order to cement their friendship more firmly, each had agreed to give one of his daughters in marriage to the son of the other. In consequence of this amicable arrangement, a daughter of Pomare was expected from Tahiti, to be the wife of Rihoriho, late king of Hawaii ; and Kekauruohe, one of the daughters of Tamehameha, was selected by her father to be the bride of Pomare, the late king of Tahiti. Wanting a conveyance from Hawaii to Tahiti, Tamehameha was unable to send Kekauruohe ; which, together with the death of Pomare before he had any opportunity of sending one of his relatives to Hawaii, prevented the intended intermarriages between the reigning families of Hawaii and Tahiti.

About two o’clock in the afternoon, the Ainoa hove up her anchor. I went on board in a canoe just as she was leaving the roads. The brig being about ninety tons burden, one of the largest the natives have, was, as has been already observed, much crowded, and, owing to the difference between the motion of the ves-

80

MISSIONARY TOUR

sel and that experienced in their small canoes, many of the natives soon became sea-sick.

It was calm through the night, but the wind blew fresh in the morning from n. n. e. and continued until noon, when, being under the lee of the high land of Kohala, one of the large divisions of Hawaii, we were becalmed. At four o’clock p. m. a light air sprung up from the southward, and carried us slowly on towards Towaihae, a district in the division of Kohala, about four miles long, containing a spacious bay, and good anchorage. The vessel stood in towards the north side of the bay, leaving a large heiau, (heathen temple,) situated on the brow of a hill, to the southward, and heading directly for a deep gully, or water-course, called Honokoa, opposite the mouth of which, about 7 p. M. she came to anchor, in 10 fathoms, with a good bottom.

The north side of the bay affords much the best anchorage for shipping, especially for those that wish to lie near the shore. It is the best holding ground, and is also screened by the kuahive (high land) of Kohala from those sudden and violent gusts of wind, called by the natives mumuku , which come down be¬ tween the mountains with almost irresistible fury, on the southern part, of Towaihae, and the adjacent dis¬ tricts c

At six A. m. the next day, I went on shore, and walked along the beach about a mile to the house of Mr. J. Young, an aged Englishman, who has resided thirty-six years on the island, and rendered the most important services to the late king; not only in his various civil wars, but in all his intercourse with those foreigners who have visited the islands.

THROUGH HAWAII.

81

I found him recovering from a fit of illness, received from him a cordial welcome, and, as he was just sit¬ ting down to his morning repast, joined him, with pleasure, at his frugal board. After breakfast, I visit¬ ed the large heiau or temple called Bukohola. It stands on an eminence in the southern part of the district, and was built by Tamehameha about thirty years ago, when he was engaged in conquering Hawaii, and the rest of the Sandwich Islands. He had subdued Maui, Kanai, and Morokai, and was preparing, from the latter, to invade Oahu, but in consequence of a rebel¬ lion in the south and east parts of Hawaii, was obliged to return thither. When he had overcome those who had rebelled, he finished the heiau, dedicated it to Tairi his god of war, and then proceeded to the conquest of Oahu. Its shape is an irregular parallelogram, 224 feet long, and 100 wide. The walls, though built of loose stones, were solid and compact. At both ends, and on the side next the mountains, they were twenty feet high, twelve feet thick at the bottom, but narrowed in gradually towards the top, where a course of smooth stones, six feet wide, formed a pleasant walk. The walls next the sea were not more than seven or eight feet high, and were proportionally wide. The entrance to the temple is by a narrow passage between two high walls. As I passed along this avenue, an involuntary shuddering seized me, on reflecting how often it had been trodden by the feet of those who relentlessly bore the murdered body of the human victim an offering to their cruel idols. The upper terrace within the area was spacious, and much better finished than the lower ones. It was paved with various flat smooth stones, a brought from a considerable distance. At the south

82

MISSIONARY TOUR

end was a kind of inner court, which might be called the sanctum sanctorum of the temple, where the prin¬ cipal idol used to stand, surrounded by a number of images of inferior deities.

In the centre of this inner court was the place where the anu was erected, which was a lofty frame of wicker¬ work, in shape something like an obelisk, hollow, and four or five feet square at the bottom. Within this the priest stood, as the organ of communication from the god, whenever the king came to inquire his will ; for his principal god was also his oracle, and when it was to be consulted, the king, accompanied by two or three attendants, proceeded to the door of the inner temple, and standing immediately before the obelisk, inquired respecting the declaration of war, the conclusion of peace, or any other affair of importance. The answer was given by the priest in a distinct and audible voice, though, like that of other oracles, it was frequently very ambiguous. On the return of the king, the an¬ swer he had received was publicly proclaimed, and generally acted upon. I have frequently asked the people, whether, on these occasions, there was not some previous agreement between the king and the priest. They generally answered in the negative, or said they did not know.

On the outside, near the entrance to the inner court, was the place of the rere (altar,) on which human and other sacrifices were offered. The remains of one of the pillars that supported it were pointed out by the natives, and the pavement around was strewed with bones of men and animals, the mouldering remains of those numerous offerings once presented there. About the centre of the terrace was the spot where the king’s

THROUGH HAWAII.

83

sacred house stood, in which he resided during the sea¬ son of strict tabu , and at the north end, the place occu¬ pied by the houses of priests, who, with the exception of the king, were the only persons permitted to dwell within the sacred enclosure. Holes were seen on the walls, all around this, as well as the lower terraces, where wooden idols of varied size and shape formerly stood, casting their hideous stare in every direction. Tairi, or KuJcairimoku, a large wooden idol, crowned with a helmet, and covered with red feathers, the favou¬ rite war-god of Tamehameha, was the principal idol. To him the heiau was dedicated, and for his occasional residence it was built. On the day in which he was brought within its precincts, vast offerings of fruit, hogs, and dogs, were presented, and no less than eleven human victims immolated on its altars. And, although the huge pile now resembles a dismantled fortress, whose frown no longer strikes terror through the sur¬ rounding country, yet it is impossible to walk over such a golgotha, or contemplate a spot which must often have resembled a pandemonium more than any thing on earth, without a strong feeling of horror at the recollection of the bloody and infernal rites so fre¬ quently practised within its walls. Thanks be to God, the idols are destroyed ! Thanks to his name, the glo¬ rious gospel of his Son, who was manifested to destroy the works of the devil, has reached these heretofore desolate shores ! May the Holy Spirit make it the “ savour of life unto life5' to the remnant of the people !

Leaving Bukohola, accompanied by some natives, I visited MairiJcini, another heiau, a few hundred yards nearer the shore. It was nearly equal in its dimen¬ sions to that on the summit of the hill, but inferior in

84

MISSIONARY TOUR

every other respect. It appeared to have been literally crowded with idols, but no human sacrifices were of¬ fered to any of its gods.

On returning to Mr. Young’s house, I was informed that the vessel would sail that evening for Kairua, a circumstance I much regretted, as I hoped to spend the sabbath at Towaihae. Mr. Young, however, collected his family and neighbours together, to the number of sixty. A short exhortation was given, and followed by prayer ; after which I took leave of my kind host, repaired on board, and the vessel soon after got under way.

It was daylight the next morning before we had left Towaihae bay, as the wind during the night had been very light. The sea breeze had, however, set in early, and carried us along a rugged and barren shore of lava towards Kairua, which is distant from Towaihae about thirty miles. It being the sabbath, I preached on deck in the afternoon from Mark iv. 38, 39. to a congrega¬ tion of about 150 natives, including the greater part of the crew. Many of the people were afterwards ob¬ served sitting together in small groups, and conversing about what they had heard, though some were inclined to make sport of it.

In the evening we were opposite Laemano (Shark’s Point,) but strong westerly currents prevented our making much progress.

On the morning of the 14th, we found ourselves becalmed to the southward of Kairua, several leagues from the shore. The snow-covered tops of the moun¬ tains were distinctly seen at sunrise, but they soon after became enveloped in clouds, and continued so through the day. A light breeze carried the vessel

100

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85

towards the land, and at nine A. m. the boat was low¬ ered down, and I proceeded to the shore. On my way I met the governor Kuakini, and Messrs. Goodrich and Harwood, who were coming off in the governor’s boat. We returned together to the shore, where Ī was gladly received by Messrs. Thurston and Bishop, whom I found waiting to proceed on the tour of the island.

In the afternoon, a party of strolling musicians and dancers arrived at Kairua. About four o’clock they came, followed by crowds of people, and arranged themselves on a fine sandy beach, in front of one ot the governor’s houses, where they exhibited a native dance, called hura arciapctpa.

The five musicians first seated themselves in a line on the ground, and spread a piece of folded cloth on the sand before them. Their instrument was a large calabash, or rather two, one of an oval shape about three feet high, the other perfectly round, very neatly fastened to it, having also an aperture about three inches in diameter at the top. Each musician held his instrument before him with both hands, and produced his music by striking it on the ground, where he had laid the piece of cloth, and beating it with his fingers, or the palms of his hands. As soon as they began to sound their calabashes, the dancer, a young man, about the middle stature, advanced through the opening crowd. His jet-black hair hung in loose and flowing ringlets down his naked shoulders ; his necklace was made of a vast number of strings of nicely braided human hair, tied together behind, while a paraoa (an ornament made of a whale’s tooth) hung pendent from it on his breast; his wrists were ornamented with bracelets, formed of polished tusks of the hog, and

86

MISSIONARY TOUR

his ancles with loose buskins, thickly set with dog’s teeth, the rattle of which, during the dance, kept time with the music of the calabash drum. A beautiful yellow tapa was tastefully fastened round his loins, reaching to his knees. He began his dance in front of the musicians, and moved forwards and backwards, across the area, occasionally chanting the achieve¬ ments of former kings of Hawaii. The governor sat at the end of the ring, opposite to the musicians, and appeared gratified with the performance, which conti¬ nued until the evening

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CHAP. IV.

Proposed Route — An ancient Fortress — Aid from the Governor of Hawaii — Another Native Dance — Height of Mouna Hua- rarai — Manner of preparing Bark for Native Cloth — Cul¬ tivation of the Cloth Plant — Method of manufacturing and painting various kinds of Cloth — Conversation with the Governor — Departure from Kairua — Description of our Guide — Several Heiaus — Population of the Western Coast — Tracts of rugged Lava — Scene of the Battle which took place , in consequence of the Abolition of Idolatry , in 1819 — Description of the Battle — Tomb of a celebrated Priest — Account of Captain Cook's Death, and the Honours rendered to his Remains — Encouraging Missionary Labours.

July 15th. Our whole number being now together at the place where we had previously agreed to com¬ mence our tour, we no longer delayed to decide on the route we should take, and the manner in which we should endeavour to accomplish the objects of our visit. Anxious to gain a thorough acquaintance with the circumstances of the people, and their disposition relative to missionary operations, we agreed to travel on foot from Kairua, through the villages on the south¬ ern shore, to pass round the south point, and continue along the south-east shore, till we should arrive at the path leading to the great volcano, situated at the foot of Mouna Roa, about 25 miles distant from the sea, which we thought it improper to pass unnoticed. We

88

MISSIONARY TOUR

proposed, after visiting the volcano, either to descend to the shore and travel along the coast through the division of Puna , or across the interior to the division of Hiro, as circumstances might then render most ex¬ pedient. From Waiakea in Hiro, we agreed to pro¬ ceed along the eastern shore, till an opportunity should offer for part of our number to cross over the moun¬ tains of Kohala, while the rest should travel along the shore, round the north point of the island, and meet their companions at Towaihae, whence they could re¬ turn direct to Oahu, if a means of conveyance should present itself, or to Kairua, and there wait for a vessel. The plan of our tour being thus arranged, we were anxious to receive the aid of the governor in the execu¬ tion of it. Mr. Thurston and myself were therefore chosen to wait upon him in the afternoon, to make him acquainted with our wishes, and solicit his assistance for their accomplishment.

I afterwards accompanied Mr. Thurston to the well, where we found the natives boring the hard rocks of lava which they intended to blast. We encouraged them in their laborious work, and then visited the ruins of an old military fortification, formerly belong¬ ing to the mafcaainana, (common people, as distin¬ guished from the aristocracy, or reigning chiefs.) In those periods of their history, during which the island of Hawaii was divided into a number of independent governments, under different chiefs, which were fre¬ quent prior to the reign of Taraiopu, who was king at the time of its discovery by Captain Cook ; this had been a place of considerable importance. All that at present remains is part of the wall, about eighteen or twenty feet high, and fourteen feet thick at the bottom,

'VnuiTnf M?9Zt ' 'uo^myfydo^ qU'PTjm? uw jd truing

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89

built of lava, and apparently entire. In the upper part of the wall are apertures resembling embrasures ; but they could not have been designed for cannon, that being an engine of war with which the natives have but recently become acquainted. The part of the wall now standing, is near the mouth of Raniakea, the spacious cavern already mentioned, which formed a valuable appendage to the fort. In this cavern, children and aged persons were placed for security during an as¬ sault or sally from the fort, and sometimes the wives of the warriors also, when they did accompany their husbands to the battle. The fortification was probably extensive, as traces of the ancient walls are discover¬ able in several places ; but what were its original di¬ mensions, the natives who were with us could not tell. They asserted, however, that the cavern, if not the fort also, was formerly surrounded by a strong palisade.

In the afternoon we waited on the governor, accord¬ ing to appointment ; made him acquainted with our ar¬ rangements, and solicited the accommodation of a boat, or canoe, to carry our baggage, and a man acquainted with the island, to act as guide, and to procure provi¬ sions, offering him, at the same time, any remuneration he might require for such assistance. A/ter inquiring what baggage we intended to take, and how long we expected to bh absent from Kairua, he generously of¬ fered to send a canoe as far as it could go with safety, and also to furnish a guide for the whole tour without any recompense whatever. He recommended that we should take a few articles for barter, as, occasionally, we might perhaps be obliged to purchase our food, or hire men to carry our baggage. After thanking him for his kindness, we returned.

N

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MISSIONARY TOUR

About four o’clock in the afternoon, another party of musicians and dancers, followed by multitudes of peo¬ ple, took their station nearly on the spot occupied yes¬ terday by those from Kaii. The musicians, seven in number, seated themselves on the sand ; a curiously carved drum, made by hollowing out a solid piece of wood, and covering the top with shark’s skin, was placed before each, which they beat with the palm or fingers of their right hand. A neat little drum, made of the shell of a large cocoa-nut, was also fixed on the knee, by the sideyf the large drum, and beat with a small stick held in the left hand. When the musicians had arranged themselves in a line, across the beach, and a bustling man, who appeared to be master of the ceremonies, had, with a large branch of a cocoa-nut tree, cleared a circle of considerable extent, two inte¬ resting little children, (a boy and a girl,) apparently about nine years of age, came forward, habited in the dancing costume of the country, with garlands of flow¬ ers on their heads, wreaths around their necks, brace¬ lets on their wrists, and buskins on their ankles. When they had reached the centre of the ring, they commenced their dance to the music of the drums ; cantilating, alternately with the musicians, a song in honour of some ancient of Hawaii.

The governor of the island was present, accompa¬ nied, as it is customary for every chieftain of distinc¬ tion to be on public occasions, by a retinue of favourite chiefs and attendants. Having almost entirely laid aside the native costume, and adopted that of the foreigners who visit the islands, he appeared on this occasion in a light European dress, and sat on a Can- ton-made arm chair, opposite the dancers, during the

Hurei, or Native Dance, performed in presence of the Governor eiilCairitay .

THROUGH HAWAII.

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whole exhibition. A servant, with a light Icihei of painted native cloth thrown over his shoulder, stood behind his chair, holding a highly polished spittoon, made of the beautifully brown wood of the cordia in one hand, and in the other a handsome Jcahiri, an elastic rod, three or four feet long, having the shining feathers of the tropic-bird tastefully fastened round the upper end, with which he fanned away the flies from the person of his master.

The beach was crowded with spectators, and the ex¬ hibition kept up with great spirit, till the overspread¬ ing shades of evening put an end to their mirth, and afforded a respite to the poor children, whose little limbs must have been very much fatigued by two hours of constant exercise. We were anxious to address the multitude on the subject of religion before they should disperse ; but so intent were they on their amusement, that they could not have been diverted from it. I suc¬ ceeded, however, in taking a sketch of the novel as¬ semblage, in which, a youth, who had climbed a high pole, (that, looking over the heads of the throng who surrounded the dancers, he might witness the scene,) formed a conspicuous object.

A messenger now invited us to sup with the go¬ vernor, and we soon after joined him and his friends around his hospitable board. Our repast was not ac¬ companied by the gladsome sound of “ harp in hall” or “ aged minstrefls flowing lay,” yet it was enlivened by an interesting youthful bard, twelve or fourteen years of age, who was seated on the ground in the large room in which we were assembled, and who, during the supper, sung, in a monotonous but pleasing strain, the deeds of former chiefs, ancestors of our

02

MISSIONARY TOUR

host. His fingers swept no “ classic lyre,” but beat, in a manner responsive to his song, a rustic little drum, formed of a calabash, beautifully stained, and covered at the head with a piece of shark skin. The governor and his friends were evidently pleased with his lay, and the youth seemed repaid by their approbation.

In the morning of the 16th, Messrs. Goodrich and Harwood endeavoured to ascertain the height of Mouna Huararai, by means of two observations at the extre¬ mity of a base line of 2230 feet. They made the height of the mountain to be 7822 feet ; but their quadrant being an inferior one, we thought the height of the mountain greater than that given above, though it is never covered with snow.

The accounts the natives gave us of the roads we were to travel, and the effects the short journeys alrea¬ dy made had produced on our shoes, convinced us that those we had brought with us would be worn out before we had proceeded even half way round the island. We therefore provided a substitute, by pro¬ curing a tough bull’s hide from the governor’s store¬ house, and making ourselves rude sandals ; which we afterwards found very serviceable, as they enabled us to travel over large tracts of lava with much more _ expedition and comfort than we could possibly have done without them.

At four p. m. the musicians from Kaii again collect¬ ed on the beach, and the dancer commenced a hum, similar to that exhibited on Monday evening. We had previously appointed a religious meeting for this evening, and, about an hour before sun-set, proposed to the governor to hold it on the beach, where the people were already assembled. He approved, and

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followed us to the edge of the circle, where we took our station, opposite the musicians. At the governor’s request the music ceased, and the dancer came and sat down just in front of us. We sang a hymn ; I then offered up a short prayer, and afterwards addressed the people from Acts xiv. 15 ; “ And preach unto you, that ye should turn from these vanities unto the living God, which made heaven and earth, and the sea, and all things that are therein.’- The multitude collected was from different and distant parts of the island, and appeared to listen with attention to the word spoken. To many, it was doubtless the first time they had heard of the name of Jehovah, or of Jesus Christ his Son, and we afterwards heard them conversing among themselves about the truths they had heard.

After supper and family worship at the governor’s, I spent the evening in conversation with him, partly on traditions respecting some remarkable places in the neighbourhood of Kairua, and partly on the sub¬ ject of religion. I spoke on the desirableness of his building a place for the public worship of the true God, and the advantages of keeping the Sabbath as a day of holy rest, recommending him to set the com¬ mon people a good example, and use his influence to induce them to attend public service on the Lord’s day. He said it was his intention to build a church by and by, when the maka-ainana should become interested in these things, and when they should have a missionary to reside permanently with them ; but that at present the people at Kairua were quite indifferent to all religion.

For several days past we have observed many of the people bringing home from their plantations bun-

94

MISSIONARY TO$R

dies of young wauti, (a variety of the morns papyri - /era,) from which we infer that this is the season for cloth-making in this part of the island.

This morning, the 17th, we perceived Keoua, the go¬ vernor’s wife, and her female attendants, with about forty other women, under the pleasant shade of a beau¬ tiful clump of cordia or kou trees, employed in strip¬ ping off the bark from bundles of ivauti sticks, for the purpose of making it into cloth. The sticks were generally from six to ten feet long, and about an inch in diameter at the thickest end. They first cut the bark, the whole length of the stick, with a sharp ser¬ rated shell, and having carefully peeled it off, rolled it into small coils, the inner bark being outside. In this state it is left some time, to make it flat and smooth. Keoua not only worked herself, but appeared to take the superintendence of the whole party. Whenever a fine piece of bark was found, it was shewn to her, and put aside to be manufactured into wairiirii, or some other particular cloth. With lively chat and cheerful song, they appeared to beguile the hours of labour until noon, when having finished their work, they re¬ paired to their dwellings.

The wauti plant, of which the greater part of the cloth on this side of the island is made, is cultivated with much care in their gardens of sugar-cane, plan¬ tain, &c. and whole plantations are sometimes devoted exclusively to its growth. Slips about a foot long are planted nearly two feet apart, in long rows, four or six feet asunder. Two or three shoots rise from most of the slips, and grow till they are six or twelve feet high, according to the richness of the soil, or the kind of cloth for which they are intended. Any small branches

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that may sprout out from the side of the long shoot, are carefully plucked off, and sometimes the bud at the top of the plant is pulled out, to cause an increase in its size. Occasionally they are two years growing, and seldom reach the size at which they are fit for use, in less than twelve or even eighteen months, when they are cut off near the ground, the old roots being left, to produce shoots another year.

The bark, when stripped off and rolled up, as de¬ scribed above, is left several days ; when, on being un¬ rolled, it appears quite flat. The outer bark is then taken off, generally by scraping it with a large shell, and the inner bark, of which the cloth is made, is occa¬ sionally laid in water, to extract the resinous sub¬ stances it may contain. Each piece of bark is then taken singly, and laid across a piece of wood, twelve or eighteen feet long, six inches square, smooth on the top, but having a groove on the under side, and is beaten with a square mallet of hard heavy wood, about a foot in length, and two inches wide ; three sides are carved in grooves or ribs, the other into squares, in order that one mallet may answer for the different kinds of cloth they are accustomed to make. When they have beaten the bark till it is spread out nine inches or a foot wide, it is either dried and reserved for future use, or wrapped up in leaves, laid by for a day or two, and then beaten out afresh till the required extent and texture are produced.

Various sorts of cloth are made with this plant, some remarkably fine and even ; that which has been beaten with a mallet, carved in different patterns, much re¬ sembles muslin at first sight, while that made with a grooved mallet appears, until closely examined, some-

96

MISSIONARY TOUR

thing like dimity. There are other kinds, very thick and tough, which look like wash-leather ; but the most common sort is the pau, worn round the waists of the females. To make this, a piece of bark is beaten till it is four yards long, and more than a yard wide, and of an equal texture throughout. Sometimes two or three pieces of bark are necessary to make one piece of cloth. Five of these pieces, when finished, are spread out one upon the other, and fastened together at one end. These five pieces make only one pau. The inside pieces are usually white, or yellow ; but the outside piece is always stained, or painted, with vegetable dyes of various colours. No gum is used in the manufacture of the pau, except that contained in the bark, yet the fibres adhere firmly together. Those painted red or yellow, &c. are sometimes rubbed over with a vegetable oil, in which chips of sandal wood, or the seeds of the pandanus odorotissima, have been steeped. This is designed to perfume the cloth, and render it impervious to wet ; it is, however, less dura¬ ble than the common paii.

There is another kind of cloth, called tapa moe, (sleeping cloth,) made principally for the chiefs, who use it to wrap themselves in at night, while they sleep. It is generally three or four yards square, very thick, being formed of several layers of common tapa, cement¬ ed with gum, and beaten with a grooved mallet till they are closely interwoven. The colour is various, either white, yellow, brown, or black, according to the fancy of its owner. Nearly resembling the tapa moe is the kihei, only it is both thinner and smaller. It is made in the same manner, and is about the size of a large shawl, or counterpane. Sometimes it is brown.

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but more frequently white or yellow, intermixed with red and black. It is generally worn by the men, thrown loosely over one shoulder, passed under the opposite arm, and tied in front, or on the other shoulder.

But the best kind of cloth made with the cultivated plant is the wairiirii, which is made into paiis for the females, and maros for the men. The paiis are gene¬ rally four yards long, and about one yard wide, very thick, beautifully painted with brilliant red, yellow, and black colours, and covered over with a fine gum and resinous varnish, which not only preserves the colours, but renders the cloth impervious and durable. The maros are about a foot wide, and three or four yards long.

The colours they employ are procured from the leaves, bark, berries, or roots of indigenous plants, and require much skill in their preparation. One or two kinds of earth are also used in mixing the darker co¬ lours. Since foreigners have visited them, they have found, upon trial, that our colours are better than theirs, and the paint they purchase from ships has superseded in a great degree the native colours, in the painting of all the most valuable kinds of cloth.

Their manner of painting is ingenious. They cut the pattern they intend to stamp on their cloth, on the inner side of a narrow piece of bamboo, spread their cloth before them on a board, and having their colours properly mixed, in a calabash by their side, dip the point of the bamboo, which they hold in their right hand, into the paint, strike it against the edge of the calabash, place it on the right or left side of the cloth, and press it down with the fingers of the left hand. The pattern is dipped in the paint after every impres-

o

98

MISSIONARY TOUR

sion, which is continued till the cloth is marked quite across, when it is moved on the board, and the same repeated till it is finished.

The tapa in general lasts but a little while, compared with any kind of wove cloth, yet if kept free from wet, which causes it to rend like paper, some kinds may be worn a considerable time. The fabrication of it shews both invention and industry ; and whether we consider its different textures, its varied and regular patterns, its beautiful colours, so admirably preserved by means of the varnish, we are at once convinced, that the peo¬ ple who manufacture it are neither deficient in taste, nor incapable of receiving the improvements of civilized society.*

During the forenoon, Mr. Harwood made an auger, to aid the well-diggers in boring the rocks. I walked with Mr. Thurston to see what progress they had made, and to encourage them to persevere. The rocks they said were hard, and their progress slow, yet they were not discouraged, but hoped to find the work easier as they descended.

After dinner, the governor entered freely into con¬ versation on religious subjects, particularly respecting the resurrection of the body, the destruction of the heavens and the earth at the last day, and the final judgment. After listening attentively to what was said upon these subjects, he inquired about the locality of heaven and hell. He was told that we did not know where the one or the other was situated, as none had ever returned from either, to tell mankind about them ;

* Specimens of the principal kinds of native cloth, manufac¬ tured in the Sandwich Islands, may be seen in the Missionary Museum, Austin Friars.

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and we only know, that there is a place called heaven, where God makes glorious manifestations of his per¬ fections, and where all good men are perfectly happy ; and that there is a place were wicked men are shut up in darkness, and endure endless misery. He then said, “ How do you know these things?” I asked for his bible, and translated the passages which inculcate the doctrine of the resurrection. See. and told him it was from that book We obtained all our knowledge of these things ; and that it was the contents of that book which we had come to teach the people of Hawaii. He then asked if all the people in our native countries •were acquainted with the bible. I answered, that from the abundant means of instruction enjoyed there, the greater portion of the people had either read the book, or had in some other way become acquainted with its principal contents. He then said. How is it that such numbers of them swear, get intoxicated, and do so many things prohibited in that book ? He was told, that there was a vast difference between knowing the word of God, and obeying it ; and that it was most likely, those persons knew their conduct was displeas¬ ing to God, yet persisted in it, because agreeable to their corrupt inclinations. He asked if God would not be angry with us for troubling him so frequently with our prayers? If he was like man, he said, he was sure he would. I replied, that God was always “waiting to be gracious,” more ready to hear than we were to pray ; that indeed he was not like man, or his patience would have been exhausted long ago by the wickedness of men ; but that he continued exercising long-suffering and forbearance towards sinners, that they might turn from their wickedness and live.

100

MISSIONARY TOUR

We supped with the governor as usual, and, after family worship with his household, prepared our bag¬ gage for our journey, some of which we left to be for¬ warded by the Ainoa to Waiakea, a district on the eastern side of the island.

About eleven o’clock in the forenoon, on the 18th, we waited on the governor to express our grateful sense of the generous hospitality we had experienced from him, during our protracted stay at Kairua. We also thanked him for the friendly advice he had given, and the acceptable aid he had so kindly furnished for the prosecution of our journey, and informed him that we were ready to proceed. He had before given instruc¬ tions to our guide. He now directed the man who was going in the canoe, to take care of our things, and told us he would send some men to carry our baggage by land, as far as Kearake’kua. We then took leave of him, and proceeded on our journey. Messrs. Eisliop and Harwood went in the canoe, the rest of our num¬ ber travelled on foot.

Our guide, Makoa, who had been the king’s messen¬ ger many years, and was well acquainted with the island, led the way. He was rather a singular looking little man, between forty and fifty years of age. A thick tuft of jet black curling hair shaded his wrinkled forehead, and a long bunch of the saihe kind hung down behind each of his ears. The rest of his head was cropped as short as shears could make it. His small black eyes were ornamented with tataued Vandyke semicircles. Two goats, impressed in the same inde¬ lible manner, stood rampant over each of his brows ; one, like the supporter of a coat of arms, was fixed on each side of his nose, and two more guarded the cor-

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101

ners of his mouth. The upper part of his beard was shaven close ; but that which grew under his chin, was drawn together, braided for an inch or two, and then tied in a knot, while the extremities below the knot spread out in curls like a tassel. A light kihei , (cloth worn like a shawl,) was carelessly thrown over one shoulder, and tied in a knot on the other ; and a large fan, made of cocoa-nut leaf, in his hand, served to beat away the flies, or the boys, when either became too numerous or troublesome.

Leaving Kairua, we passed through the villages thickly scattered along the shore to the southward. The country around looked unusually green and cheer¬ ful, owing to the frequent rains, which for some months past have fallen on this, side of the island. Even the barren lava, over which we travelled, seemed to veil its sterility beneath frequent tufts of tall waving grass, or spreading shrubs and flowers. The sides of the hills, laid out for a considerable extent in gardens and fields, and generally cultivated w ith potatoes, and other vegetables, were beautiful. The number of heiaus, and depositories of the dead, which we passed, con¬ vinced us that this part of the island must formerly have been populous. The latter were built with frag¬ ments of lava, laid up evenly on the outside, generally about eight feet long, from four to six broad, and about four feet high. Some appeared very ancient, others had evidently been standing but a few years.

At Ruapua we examined an interesting heiau, called Kauaikahaora, built of immense blocks of lava, and found its dimensions to be 150 feet by 70. At the north end was a smaller enclosure, sixty feet long and ten wide, partitioned off by a high wall, with but one

'102

MISSIONARY TOUR

narrow entrance. The places where the idols formerly stood were apparent, though the idols had been re¬ moved. The spot where the altar had been erected could be distinctly traced ; it was a mound of earth, paved with smooth stones, and surrounded by a firm curb of lava. The adjacent ground was strewed with bones of the ancient offerings. The natives informed us that four principal idols were formerly worshipped there, one of stone, two of wood, and one covered w ith red feathers. One of them, they said, was brought from a foreign country. Their names were Kanenuia- kea , (great and wide spreading Kane,) who was brought from Tauai, Kaneruruhonua, (earth-shaking Kane,) Roramakaeha, and Kekuaaimanu .

Leaving the heiau, we passed by a number of smaller temples, principally on the sea shore, dedicated to Kuura, a male, and Hina, a female idol, worshipped by fishermen, as they were supposed to preside over the sea, and to conduct or impel to the shores of Hawaii, the various shoals of fish that visit them at different seasons of the year. The first of any kind of fish, taken in the season, was always presented to them, especi¬ ally the operu, a kind of herring. This custom exactly accords with the former practice of the inhabitants of Maui and the adjacent islands, and of the Society islanders.

At two p. m. we reached Horuaroa, a large and populous district. Here we found Keoua, the gover¬ nor’s wife, and her attendants, who had come from Kairua for wauti, with which to make cloth. Shortly after, we reached a village called Karuaokalani, (the second heaven,) where was a fine heiau, in good preser¬ vation. It is called Pakiha ; its dimensions were 270

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103

feet by 210. We could not learn the idol to which it was dedicated, but were informed it was built in the time of Keakealani, who, according to tradition, was queen of Hawaii about eleven generations back. The walls were solid, thick, and nearly entire; and the singular manner in which the stones were piled upon the top, like so many small spires, gave it an